Běiyuàn Gòngchá (Běiyuàn gòngchá, 北苑贡茶) ndi “tchayi choperekedwa ku dimba la kumpoto”: dzinali liri ndi matanthauzo aŵiri, ndipo sangathe kusakanizidwa. M’mbiri yakale, limeneli linali dzina la tchayi ya khothi la Jianzhou, yophikidwa ndi nthunzi, kusinjidwa kukhala phala, ndi kukanikizidwa kukhala timkate tokhala ndi chinjoka ndi phoenix, chimene malinga ndi magwero a kumaloko, chinali kupita ku khothi kwa zaka 458 kuyambira ufumu wa Min kufikira mzera wa Ming. Masiku ano, ndi chizindikiro cha malo a tawuni ya Jian’ou (建瓯市) kumpoto kwa Fujian ndi chizindikiro chodziwika cha tchayi zake zonse; chikalata cha chizindikirocho chimalongosola wulong ndi “tsamba lobiriwira m’mbali zofiira.”
1. Magulu ndi Chiyambi
- Mtundu: Wulong (乌龙茶, wūlóngchá) malinga ndi chikalata cha chizindikiro: mitundu ya shuǐxiān ndi ǎijiǎo wūlóng, makutidwe ndi oxyidation pogwedeza (做青). Běiyuàn Gòngchá ya mbiri yakale ndi tchayi yophikidwa ndi nthunzi ndi kukanikizidwa (蒸青研膏团饼茶), osati wulong.
- Gulu: Chizindikiro cha malo chaulimi (2012), kuyambira 2025 chinthu chokhala ndi chizindikiro cha malo; nthawi yomweyo chizindikiro chodziwika cha tawuni.
- Chimene chikukhudzidwa ndi chizindikirocho: Malinga ndi Central People’s Radio (2024), makamaka wulong wosalala wa ǎijiǎo, shuǐxiān, měizhàn, ròuguì ndi woyera Shuǐxiān Bái, komanso timkate tokanikizidwa topangidwanso.
- Chiyambi: China, chigawo cha Fujian (福建, Fújiàn), mzinda wa Nanping (南平, Nánpíng), tawuni ya Jian’ou (建瓯, Jiàn’ōu) ndi Jianzhou wakale (建州).
- Dera lotetezedwa: Tawuni yonse, matauni ndi midzi 14 (monga Xudun, Jiyang, Fangdao, Nan’ya) ndi makomiti 4 a msewu, 4233 km².
- Zolumikizira za malo: 117°58′45″–118°57′11″ E, 26°38′54″–27°20′26″ N.
2. Mbiri ndi Tanthauzo Lachikhalidwe
- Mbiri:
- Zaka za Zhenyuan (785–805). Malinga ndi wailesi, wolamulira wa Fujian Chang Gun (常衮) anayamba kupanga ku Jianzhou tchayi yophikidwa ndi nthunzi kuchokera ku phala losinjidwa (研膏茶). “Huā mǎn lù” imatchulanso izi ku zaka za Zhenyuan ndipo imatcha Chang Gun wolamulira wa dera la Jianzhou; tsamba la tchayi ndi magazini yazachuma zimagwirizanitsa njira yatsopano yopangira ndi kusankhidwa kwake ku Fujian m’zaka za Jianzhong (780–783). Xióng Fán amayamba mbiri mosiyana: ku Southern Tang, kumapeto kwa mafumu asanu, anthu a m’zigawozo ankasonkhanitsidwa kuti akathire ku Beiyuan, kumene poyamba ankapanga tchayi yochokera ku phala losinjidwa (研膏), kenako “nkhope ya sera” (蜡面, làmiàn).
- 933. Munthu wa ku Jianzhou Zhang Tinghui (张廷晖) anapereka kwa wolamulira wa ufumu wa Min mapiri a tchayi a Fenghuangshan (凤凰山), makumi atatu a li mozungulira, kukhala dimba lachifumu. Linatchedwa “Dimba la Kumpoto” chifukwa linali kumpoto kwa ufumuwo (malinga ndi magazini yazachuma, kumpoto kwa likulu la Min Fuzhou).
- 977. Khothi la Song linatenga dimbalo pansi pa ulamuliro wake, linatumiza akuluakulu kuyang’anira kupanga, ndipo linapanga mawonekedwe a chinjoka ndi phoenix kuti “asiyanitse ndi chakumwa cha anthu wamba” (以别庶饮). Umu ndi momwe tinakhalira timkate 龙团凤饼 (lóngtuán fèngbǐng). Mu 985, pamene boma la Fujian linakhazikitsidwa, ofesi yake yoyendetsa zotengera, malinga ndi tsamba la tchayi, inaikidwa ku Jianzhou kuti itsimikizire kupanga ndi kutumiza timkate timeneti.
- Ding Wei ndi Cai Xiang. Malinga ndi “Mǐnběi rìbào” (kusindikizidwanso ndi Xinhua, 2025), m’zaka za Xianping Ding Wei (丁谓) anapanga keke ya phoenix, kenako ya chinjoka, ndipo m’zaka za Qingli Cai Xiang (蔡襄) anapanga keke yaing’ono ya chinjoka (小龙团). “Huā mǎn lù” imayika timkate tating’ono ku zaka za Tiansheng.
- Kulemera ndi mtengo wa timkate. Ouyang Xiu (欧阳修) mu “Zolemba pa Kubwerera ku Minda” (《归田录》) akulemba kuti timkate tambiri ta chinjoka ndi phoenix tinkagawidwa eyiti pa jin, ndipo tating’ono, tomwe Cai Xiang anayamba kupanga m’zaka za Qingli, makumi aŵiri, ndipo kakang’ono kanali mtengo wa golide awiri liang: “golide akhoza kupezeka, koma tchayi iyi siyingathe” (金可有而茶不可得). M’masiku a nsembe ku mphepete chakumwera, malinga ndi iye, Secretariat ndi Privy Council ankalandira keke imodzi yaing’ono ndipo ankaigawa pakati pa anayi; “Huā mǎn lù” imanena za anthu eyiti pa keke imodzi.
- Mìyúnlóng. Mwa lamulo la Shenzong ku Jianzhou anayamba kupanga “mtambo wandiweyani wa chinjoka” (密云龙, mìyúnlóng) ndipo anauika pamwamba pa timkate tating’ono. “Huā mǎn lù” imayika lamuloli kumapeto kwa zaka za Xining, Xióng Fán ku zaka za Yuanfeng; m’zaka za Shaosheng, malinga ndi Xióng Fán, tchayi iyi inatchedwanso “mtambo wabwino wa chinjoka chowuluka” (瑞云翔龙).
- Kuchuluka. Xióng Fán (熊蕃) mu “Zolemba za Tchayi Yoperekedwa ya Beiyuan ya zaka za Xuanhe” (《宣和北苑贡茶录》) akulemba: kumayambiriro kwa zaka za Taiping Xingguo ankapereka timkate 50, pofika zaka za Yuanfu 18,000, ndipo pa nthawi yake zoposa 47,100. Pa chiyambi cha msonkho chiŵerengero chimasiyana: “Huā mǎn lù” imalemba kuti pansi pa Ding Wei pachaka sankapereka zoposa timkate 40, tsamba la tchayi limanena za ma jin opitirira 50 ndi timkate eyiti pa jin lililonse.
- 1048. Mtsogoleri woyendetsa zotengera wa Fujian (转运使) Ke Shi (柯适) anasiya pamwala mawu 80 onena za nthawi ya kukhazikitsidwa, malo ndi nyumba za dimbalo, ndi zowumitsira 32, “Holo ya Tchayi Yachifumu” ndi “Kasupe Wamfumu.”
- Kufalikira. Pa nthawi ya kukula, ku Jianzhou kunali zowumitsira za boma 32 ndi malo opangira aumwini 1304.
- Kutha kwa msonkho. Msonkho unapitirira kudzera mu Song, Yuan ndi Ming; magazini yazachuma ndi bungwe la China News Service amatchula chaka cha 24 cha Hongwu (1391), pamene kupanga timkate kunalekeka. Pamene pansi pa Ming timkate tinasinthidwa ndi tchayi yosalala, tchayi yowazidwa 点茶 (diǎnchá) ku China, malinga ndi wofufuza wa kumaloko, inazimirira pang’onopang’ono.
- Zaka zingati msonkho unatenga. Wailesi ndi atolankhani a chigawo amatchula zaka 458, kuŵerengera kuchokera ku ufumu wa Min ndi 933. Tsamba la boma la chigawo mu 2023 linapereka kuŵerengera kosiyana kuchokera kwa wofufuza wa kumaloko, kuyambira 946 (chaka cha 4 cha Baoda, nthawi ya Southern Tang) ndi zaka 445.
- Chipilala. Mu 1995, Fujian Provincial Museum inachita zofukula pafupi ndi mawuwo. Dera la chipilalacho, malinga ndi magazini yazachuma, lili pafupifupi 20,000 m²; zomwe zinapezeka zikuphatikizapo matope opangidwa ndi dothi lowala ndi ng’anjo zowumitsira. Kuyambira 2006, ndi chipilala cha dziko; pa Januware 2, 2025, chigawo chinavomereza dongosolo la chitetezo chake.
- 2012. Unduna wa Zaulimi ndi m’madera, ndi chilengezo № 1813 cha pa Ogasiti 3, unalembetsa chizindikiro chaulimi; mwini satifiketi ndi Jian’ou Agricultural Technology Extension Center (建瓯市农业技术推广中心).
- 2025. Kalozera wa zizindikiro umayika dzinali ku chilengezo cha China National Intellectual Property Administration (CNIPA) № 640 chokhudza kuzindikira kwazinthu zokhala ndi chizindikiro cha malo.
- Dzina: 北苑 ndi “Dimba la Kumpoto,” 贡茶 ndi “choperekedwa,” ndiko kuti tchayi yoperekedwa ku khothi.
- Tanthauzo la chikhalidwe: Wolemba wa Song Zhou Jiang (周绛) analemba: “天下之茶建为最,建之北苑又为最” tchayi yabwino kwambiri pansi pa thambo ndi yochokera ku Jian, ndipo yabwino kwambiri ku Jian ndi yochokera ku Beiyuan. Beiyuan ndi mutu wa zolemba za Xióng Fán, “Zolemba Zapadera za Beiyuan” za Zhao Ruli (赵汝砺) ndi masamba a “Zokambirana za Tchayi” za mfumu Huizong. Zhang Tinghui amalemekezedwa ngati mulungu wa tchayi; kachisi wake ali pa phiri la Fenghuangshan m’tauni ya Dongfeng. Tawuniyi ikuchita pulogalamu yotsitsimutsa Beiyuan ya “1+5” ndikuwonetsa machitidwe achikhalidwe a tchayi: “kuitana phiri” (北苑喊山), “mipikisano ya tchayi” (北苑茗战), nsembe kwa mulungu wa tchayi. Malinga ndi Central People’s Radio (2024), ku Jian’ou kuli zinthu 7 za cholowa chosagwirika cha magawo osiyanasiyana zokhudzana ndi tchayi, ndi osunga luso la tchayi ovomerezeka 59.
3. Kufotokozera Kwachomera ndi Zopangira
- Mitundu: Malinga ndi chikalata cha chizindikiro “shuǐxiān, ǎijiǎo wūlóng ndi mitundu ina yabwino” (水仙、矮脚乌龙等优良品种); zomera zimayenera kukhala malinga ndi muyezo wa dziko GB 11767.
- Kutema: Pamanja kapena makina, malinga ndi lamulo la makampani la kutema kwamakina NY/T 225. Malamulo a kutema ndi nthawi sanapezeke m’magwero opezeka.
4. Terroir ndi Makhalidwe a Kulima
- Dera: Kumpoto kwa Fujian, kumtunda kwa mtsinje wa Minjiang. Zhao Ruli anayika Beiyuan pafupi ndi phiri la Fenghuangshan ndipo anatcha nthaka yakumeneko yofiira (赤壤). Malinga ndi chikalata cha chizindikiro, tawuniyi ili kum’mwera chakum’mawa kwa mapiri a Wuyi ndi kumpoto chakumadzulo kwa mapiri a Jiufengshan (鹫峰山) ndipo imakhala ndi malire ndi Jianyang kumpoto, Nanping ndi Gutian County kumwera, Zhenghe ndi Pingnan kum’mawa, Shunchang kumadzulo.
- Kutalika kwa kulima: Minda ya tchayi pa kutalika kwa 300–1280 m.
- Mawonekedwe a nthaka: Malo okwera kwambiri ndi phiri la Chenshan (辰山, 1822.2 m), otsika kwambiri ndi mudzi wa Fangcun m’tauni ya Nan’ya (68 m); mapiri ndi zitunda zimakhala 57.34% ya dera lonse.
- Nthaka: Zofiira zachikasu, zokhala ndi mbiri yakuya ndi miyala; pamwamba ndi bulauni, ofiira achikasu kapena otuwa achikasu; pH 5.5–6.5.
- Nyengo: Ya pakati pa subtropiki yamkuntho ya nyanja, yokhala ndi nyengo zowonekera; kutentha kwapachaka 14–20 °C, mvula 1600–1800 mm, chinyezi pafupifupi 80%, maola 1600 a dzuwa pachaka, masiku 280 opanda chisanu, kuchuluka kwa kutentha kopitirira 10 °C 6500 °C.
- Kukula: Malinga ndi “Mǐnběi rìbào” (2025), tawuniyi ili ndi ma mu 141,000 a minda ndi matani 20,600 a tchayi yaiwisi pachaka; pafupifupi 80% ya zopangira, malinga ndi wailesi, amagulidwa ndi makampani a m’tauni ya Xiaoqiao.
5. Ukadaulo wa Kupanga
Malinga ndi chikalata cha chizindikiro, Běiyuàn Gòngchá yamakono imapangidwa motere:
- Kufota (萎凋, wěidiāo).
- Kuziziritsa tsamba (凉青, liángqīng).
- Kugwedeza ndi makutidwe ndi oxyidation (做青, zuòqīng).
- Kukhazikitsa (杀青, shāqīng).
- Kupota (揉捻, róuniǎn).
- Kuwumitsa koyamba (初焙, chūbèi).
- Kuziziritsa (摊凉, tānliáng).
- Kuwumitsa kawiri (复焙, fùbèi).
Chikalatacho sichipereka njira kapena kutentha. Ukadaulo wa Song unali wosiyana: “Zolemba Zapadera za Beiyuan” zimatchula kutema, kusankha, kuthira nthunzi, kufinya, kusinja, kuumba ndi kuwumitsa (采茶、拣茶、蒸茶、榨茶、研茶、造茶、过黄). Tawuniyi ikubwezeretsa izi: malinga ndi wailesi, timkate tokanikizidwa timapangidwanso m’njira yakale, ndipo makina apangidwa a tchayi yowazidwa.
6. Makhalidwe a Organoleptic
Kufotokozera kuli m’munsi kumachokera ku chikalata cha chizindikiro chaulimi; kumakhudza wulong wosalala.
- Maonekedwe a tsamba louma: Lopota mwamphamvu, lolemera; mtundu wobiriwira-bulauni, wamafuta (条索紧结重实,色泽青褐油润).
- Fungo la tsamba louma: Palibe kufotokozera kosiyana m’magwero opezeka.
- Fungo la madzi a tchayi: Lokhuthala komanso lokhalitsa, la maluwa ndi zipatso (香气浓郁持久,具有花果香).
- Kukoma: Kodzaza, ndi kubwerera kotsekemera (滋味醇厚回甘).
- Mtundu wa madzi a tchayi: Wowonekera, wachikasu-lalanje (汤色清澈橙黄).
- Pansi pa tchayi (tsamba lothiridwa): Lokhuthala, lofewa ndi lowala, “tsamba lobiriwira m’mbali zofiira” (叶底肥厚软亮,绿叶红镶边).
7. Kapangidwe ka Mankhwala
Chikalatacho chimatchula ma polyphenols a tchayi, caffeine ndi amino acids, koma sichipereka ziŵerengero. Pa chitetezo, chinthucho chiyenera kugwirizana ndi muyezo wa “wobiriwira” NY/T 288-2002.
8. Kuthira
Njira ya kalasi ya wulong yochokera ku mitundu ya tsamba lalikulu.
- Kutentha kwa madzi: 95–100 °C.
- Kuchuluka kwa tchayi: 7–8 g pa gaiwan 110 ml.
- Zida: Gaiwan kapena mdziro wadothi.
- Njira:
- Tenthetsani zida ndikutsuka tsamba mwachidule.
- Zothira zoyamba 15–30 sekondi.
- Onjezerani nthawi pakuthira kulikonse.
- Kuthira kasanu kapena kasanu ndi kawiri.
9. Kusunga
Njira ya kalasi. Motsekedwa, pamalo owuma ozizira, popanda kuwala ndi fungo lachilendo.
10. Mtengo ndi Zonamizira
Palibe deta ya mitengo m’magwero opezeka. Utsogoleri wa tawuni ya Xiaoqiao, malinga ndi wailesi, umatcha tchayi yomalizidwa ya Jian’ou yotsika mtengo kwambiri kuposa ya Wuyishan.
- Momwe mungapewere zonamizira:
- Fufuzani chizindikiro cha malo: amachigwiritsa ntchito ndi chilolezo cha mwini satifiketi; malinga ndi “Mǐnběi rìbào,” m’dongosolo la chizindikiro chodziwika, ufulu wa chizindikiro cha “北苑贡茶” watsimikizidwa kwa makampani 26.
- Onetsetsani kuti tchayi inapangidwa ku Jian’ou.
- Yang’anani gulu pa paketi: pansi pa dzinali amagulitsa wulong, tchayi yoyera, ndi timkate tokanikizidwa. Malinga ndi wailesi, dzina “北苑贡茶” limayikidwa pa paketi ya tchayi iliyonse yomalizidwa yomwe Jian’ou imagulitsa kunja, ndipo limanena za malo, osati mtundu.
- Kwa wulong, chizindikiro ndi tsamba lobiriwira-bulauni lamafuta, madzi a tchayi achikasu-lalanje ndi m’mbali zofiira pa tsamba lothiridwa.
- Musasokoneze ndi “北苑贡茶(延平焙)” ya chigawo choyandikira cha Yanping: Yanping siili m’dera la chizindikirocho.
11. Zinthu Zosangalatsa
- Mawu a Ke Shi nyuzipepala imatcha olembedwa okhawo opezeka ku China okhudza msonkho wa tchayi ya khothi.
- Mu mndandanda wa zizindikiro za m’madera wa 2024, “Dōngfēng Ǎijiǎo Wūlóng” (东峰矮脚乌龙) ili pa nambala 61, ndipo “Běiyuàn Gòngchá” yomwe pa nambala 73.
- Timkate ta “北苑贡茶·龙团凤饼” tatengedwa kukasungidwa kosatha ku National Archives of Publications (国家版本馆).
12. Kuyerekeza ndi Tchayi Zina
- Ǎi Jiǎo Wūlóng (矮脚乌龙): Imodzi mwa mitundu iŵiri yotchulidwa mu chikalata cha chizindikiro.
- Jiàn’ōu Shuǐxiān Chá (建瓯水仙茶): Chizindikiro cha 2019 cha wulong yochokera ku shuǐxiān m’dera lomwelo.
- Nánlù Shuǐxiān (南路水仙): Chizindikiro cha tawuni ya shuǐxiān yochokera ku Nan’ya mkati mwa dera lomwelo.
- Yánpíng Gòngchá (延平贡茶): “Tchayi yoperekedwa” yoyandikira yokhala ndi chizindikiro chake.
- Shuǐxiān Bái (水仙白): Tchayi yoyera yochokera ku shuǐxiān, komanso pansi pa chizindikiro cha Jian’ou.
Pomaliza:
Běiyuàn Gòngchá ndi dzina lokhala ndi miyoyo iŵiri: timkate ta Song ndi chinjoka ndi phoenix, mawu a 1048 ndi zaka za msonkho, komanso chizindikiro cha 2012 cha wulong ya Jian’ou yochokera ku shuǐxiān ndi ǎijiǎo wūlóng yokhala ndi tsamba lobiriwira-bulauni, fungo la maluwa ndi zipatso ndi m’mbali zofiira. Pogula tchayi pansi pa dzinali, muyenera kuyang’ana gulu, osati nthano.
Magwero
Miyezo
- GB 11767
- NY/T 225
- NY/T 288-2002
Chizindikiro cha malo
Mndandanda wonse — patsamba la Magwero