qiáomài

Buckwheat (荞麦, qiáomài) imalowa mu gawo la “maluwa ndi zowuma” osati monga tiyi kapena monga chopangira maluwa cha 窨制 (yìnzhì), koma monga “chouma” chomera cha tirigu cha kulowetsa madzi, chomwe ndi 代用茶 (dàiyòngchá) wamba, “cholowa m’malo mwa tiyi”. Pansipa pali momwe amaimira poyerekeza ndi dongosolo la tiyi wa ku China, momwe amakonzedwera, momwe amathiridwira madzi ndi zizindikiro zomwe zimasiyanitsa katundu wabwino ndi wopanda pake.

Chifukwa chake buckwheat si tiyi: mfundo za dongosolo

Dongosolo la ku China limamangidwa pa magulu asanu ndi limodzi oyambirira, onse omwe amapangidwa kuchokera ku tsamba la chitsamba cha tiyi, ndi pa chachisanu ndi chiwiri, chomwe chili kunja kwa asanu ndi limodziwa, 再加工茶 (zàijiāgōngchá), tiyi wokonzedwanso. Ndiko kumene 花茶 (huāchá) amakhala, tiyi onunkhira ndi maluwa: chinthu chawo chofunikira ndi 茶坯 (chápī), maziko a tiyi, nthawi zambiri 烘青绿茶 (hōngqīng lǜchá), kawirikawiri tiyi wofiira, wa oolong kapena woyera. Maluwa mu 花茶 ndi wonyamula fungo, osati thupi la chakumwa: jasmine, osmanthus, rose, 白兰 (báilán), 珠兰 (zhūlán), 玳玳 (dàidài) amapereka zinthu zothawika ku tsamba la tiyi pa nthawi ya 窨, nthawi zambiri mobwerezabwereza.

Kuchokera apa pali chotsatira chachindunji. Kumene kulibe maziko a tiyi n’komwe, katundu amatuluka mu dongosolo, monga momwe m’matchati amatchulira 菊花茶 (júhuāchá): chrysanthemum yokha si tsamba la tiyi, ndipo “tiyi” amatchulidwa chifukwa cha chizolowezi chamba. Zakumwa za buckwheat ndi zomwezo, koma kutali kwambiri ndi tiyi: si maluwa koma chipatso, ndipo amapanga mtundu, kukoma, ndi thupi la zakumwa zonse, popanda kutenga nawo mbali kwa Camellia sinensis. Njira yokhayo yoti buckwheat ikhale mkati mwa dongosolo la tiyi ndikukhala chigawo cha kusakaniza ndi tiyi weniweni, monga 菊普 (jú pǔ), kumene chrysanthemum amasakanizidwa ndi shu puer. Zosakaniza zotere ziyenera kufotokozedwa ngati zosakaniza, osati ngati 花茶: 窨制 sikugwiritsidwa ntchito ku tirigu m’malo mwake, chifukwa mbiri ya buckwheat imapangidwa osati ndi maluwa othawika koma ndi zinthu zochokera ku kukazinga.

Mfundo yothandiza pa mafotokozedwe ndi mashelufu: “tiyi” wa buckwheat amalembedwa ndi kugulitsidwa ngati 代用茶, ndipo zofunikira zake ndi za mzere wa zolowa m’malo mwa tiyi, osati za miyezo ya tiyi wa green, red kapena 花茶. Uku sikuchepetsa udindo, koma nkhani ya gulu loona mtima.

Botany ndi “mitundu yobzala”

Mu machitidwe a ku China pali mitundu iwiri yosiyana kotheratu:

• 甜荞 (tiánqiáo), buckwheat wamba, Fagopyrum esculentum, “wotsekemera” buckwheat, wodziwika kuchokera ku phala ndi ufa;
• 苦荞 (kǔqiáo), buckwheat wa Tatar, Fagopyrum tataricum, “wowawa”, ndi njere zazing’ono, ndi chikopa cholimba kwambiri komanso mbiri yodzaza kwambiri, yokhala ndi kamvekedwe kakang’ono kowawa.

Pa msika wa zakumwa nthawi zambiri 苦荞 amapezeka: mkati mwake malinga ndi mtundu wa njere amasiyanitsa 黑苦荞 (hēi kǔqiáo), ndi chikopa chakuda, ndi 黄苦荞 (huáng kǔqiáo), wachikasu. 甜荞 amalowa mu zakumwa kawirikawiri, amapereka kukoma kofewa, kowonekera ngati “phala” popanda kuwawa. Kusiyana kwa mitundu ndiko chosinthira chachikulu cha kukoma, chofunikira kuposa tsatanetsatane uliwonse wa kukazinga: 苦荞 wolengezedwa ndi zakumwa zopanda kukoma kotheratu, zotsekemera zopanda kanthu pafupifupi nthawi zonse zikutanthauza kusinthidwa ndi 甜荞 kapena kusakanizidwa ndi mankhwala.

Malo ndi ulimi

Buckwheat ndi mbewu ya nyengo zazifupi komanso nthaka zosauka, chifukwa chake dera lake la mbiri yakale ku China ndi mapiri aatali ndi madera akumpoto a ulimi: madera amapiri a kumwera chakumadzulo kwa buckwheat wa Tatar ndi madera akumpoto a steppe ndi loess kwa buckwheat wotsekemera. Kutalika ndi kusiyana kwa kutentha kwa tsiku ndi usiku kumagwira ntchito pano pafupifupi mofanana ndi nkhani ya tiyi: kudzaza njere pang’onopang’ono, chikopa cholimba, kuchuluka kwa flavonoids, zomwe zimapangitsa kuwawa kodziwika komanso kuzama kwa mtundu wa yellowish-golden wa zakumwa. Chilankhulo cha terroir monga 岩韵 (yányùn) kapena 山场 (shānchǎng) kwa buckwheat kulibe, koma chiyambi cha kutalika ndi mtundu chimamveka pa kukoma.

Kukonza: kukazinga m’malo mwa 窨制

Njira ya ukadaulo ya zakumwa za buckwheat ndi yaifupi ndipo siyikugwirizana ndi ya tiyi:

1. Kuyeretsa ndi kusanja. Kuchotsa zinyalala, njere zopanda kanthu, gawo la chikopa; kusanja malinga ndi kukula.
2. Kusenda, kwathunthu kapena pang’ono. Kulekanitsa kwakukulu: katundu ndi mwana wosungidwa ndi phata motsutsana ndi njira yotsika mtengo yokhala ndi chikopa chochuluka ndi zidutswa zosweka.
3. Kukonzekera ndi madzi otentha, kuyika mu nthunzi kapena kuvundikira, kuti njere zikazidwe mofanana.
4. Kukazinga. Kufanana ndi 烘焙 (hōngbèi) ya tiyi mwa tanthauzo, koma osati mwa chinthu: pano pamachitika Maillard reaction ndi caramelization ya starch, kupanga kamvekedwe ka mtedza, ka mkate wokazinga. Kukazinga mopitirira muyeso kumapereka kuwawa kosalala ndi fungo la moto, chomwe ndi cholakwika chachikulu cha gulu.
5. Kupanga mawonekedwe. Mitundu itatu ya mawonekedwe: phata lathunthu, ma granules oponderezedwa kapena “ma flakes”, ndi ufa wochepa kapena zidutswa za matumba.
6. Kuyanika mpaka chinyezi chokhazikika, kuziziritsa, kulongedza. Njere zokazinga zimakoka madzi mwamsanga ndipo zimataya fungo mofulumira, choncho kulongedza kotsekereza n’kofunika kwambiri kuposa tiyi ambiri.

Palibe kufota, palibe 揉捻 (róuniǎn), palibe 杀青 (shāqīng), palibe kupesa kapena oxidation mu tanthauzo la tiyi, chifukwa china chomveka chotsutsa kuyika katundu m’magulu asanu ndi limodzi.

Kukoma ndi kuthira madzi

Mbiri: fungo louma ndi njere zokazinga, phala la buckwheat, chikopa cha mtedza, nthawi zina kamvekedwe kakang’ono ka cocoa kwa 黑苦荞 akuda. Zakumwa zowonekera ngati golide, kwa buckwheat wa Tatar ndi kuzama kwa amber. Kukoma ndi kolimba, “kwa phala”, kozungulira, ndi kuwawa kaufupi koyera kumapeto kwa 苦荞 ndipo pafupifupi kulibe kwa 甜荞. Kukhuthala kwa tannin kwa mtundu wa tiyi kulibe, choncho zakumwa sizimakhala zowawa mukazithira nthawi yayitali, koma zimangokhala zokhuthala ndi zowuma.

Magawo ogwiritsira ntchito:

• madzi ndi otentha kwambiri, pafupifupi 95–100 °C; mosiyana ndi tiyi wobiriwira wosakhwima, kutentha kochepa pano kumangolepheretsa fungo;
• mlingo ndi pafupifupi 5–8 g pa 250–300 ml;
• kuthira koyamba ndi mphindi 2–3, kenako kuthira kumatalikitsidwa;
• amapirira kuthira 2–3, pambuyo pake kukoma kumatha mwamsanga; mitundu ya ma granules ndi zosweka imapereka zonse mu kuthira koyamba ndipo kachiwiri pafupifupi sagwira ntchito;
• ziwiya ndi galasi kapena porcelain, chikho chachikulu kapena 飘逸杯 (piāoyìbēi) ndi chabwino; gongfu session ndi kuthira kwaufupi kwaufupi kwa njere sikuli kothandiza;
• zosakaniza: mfundo za 菊普 zimasamutsidwa momwe zilili, buckwheat amayenda bwino ndi shu puer, mtedza pa dothi, ndi oolong okazinga kwambiri, koma amasemphana ndi 茉莉花茶 (mòlì huāchá) ndi 花茶 ena, omwe pamwamba pawo pa maluwa othawika amangoponderezedwa ndi kukazinga kwa njere.

Zachipatala kapena zamankhwala sitikambirana pano: zakumwa za buckwheat zimafotokozedwa kokha ngati chakumwa chokoma.

Mbiri ndi malo mu chikhalidwe

Buckwheat ku China ndi chakudwa choyambirira cha madera amapiri ndi akumpoto, “tirigu wa nthaka zosauka”, maziko a noodles, mikate yophwanyika ndi ufa. Kusandulika kwake kukhala chakumwa cholongedza ndi mbiri ya msika wamakono, osati mwambo wakale wa tiyi: mosiyana ndi 珠兰花茶 (zhūlán huāchá), kumene kuli sukulu yakale ya 徽州 (Huīzhōu), kapena 茉莉花茶 ndi mawu ake 窨得茉莉无上味, zakumwa za buckwheat zilibe mwambo wa kukonza kapena ndakatulo. Adatenga malo omwewo a msika monga 菊花茶 ndi 代用茶 ena, “chikho chopanda tsamba la tiyi”, chosavuta ngati chakumwa cha madzulo cha tsiku ndi tsiku komanso monga maziko osalowerera ndale a zosakaniza.

Momwe mungasiyanitsire ndi zomwe muyenera kuyang’ana

• Werengani gulu, osati mawu oti “tiyi”. Ngati pa phukusi pali 代用茶, kulemba kumeneku n’kolondola; ngati katundu akunenedwa ngati 花茶 kapena “tiyi wobiriwira wa buckwheat”, mafotokozedwe ndi olakwika, chifukwa 花茶 amafuna 茶坯.
• Mtundu. 苦荞 wolengezedwa ayenera kupereka kuwawa koyera kodziwika ndi kamvekedwe ka amber; zakumwa zopanda kukoma, zamadzi pamtengo wa “Tatar” ndi chizindikiro chodetsa nkhawa.
• Mawonekedwe ndi zomwe zili. Phata lathunthu ndi mwana wosungidwa limayamikiridwa kwambiri; kuchuluka kwa chikopa, fumbi ndi zidutswa zazing’ono kumatanthauza zakumwa zofooka, zomwe zimataya fungo mwamsanga.
• Fungo la katundu wouma. Kukazinga kwatsopano ndi kwa mkate ndi mtedza, popanda fungo lakale; fungo la mafuta akale kapena moto limasonyeza kukazinga mopitirira muyeso kapena kusungidwa kwa nthawi yayitali popanda kulongedza kotsekereza.
• Mtundu wa zakumwa. Amber wowonekera mofanana; kusawonekera bwino ndi zotsalira pansi nthawi zambiri zimagwirizana ndi zidutswa zochuluka.
• Kuyesa “kutalikitsa”. Zakumwa za njere pafupifupi sizikhala zowawa mukazithira nthawi yayitali; ngati kuwawa koopsa kumawonekera, m’kanganowo mwina muli zinthu zosatchulidwa.

Buckwheat ndi mayeso abwino a kusunga malamulo a mafotokozedwe: amayenera kuikidwa pa shelufu yoona mtima ya “zowuma ndi maluwa” pafupi ndi chrysanthemum, koma osati mu 再加工茶, chifukwa mu chikho mulibe gramu imodzi ya tsamba la tiyi.

the teas described here are available from teamotea