biànzi chá

I-Biànzi chá (辫子茶, «i-braid», «i-kosa») — akusilo iresiphi noma uhlobo, kodwa ifomu: iqabunga eligoqwe laba yintambo futhi lalukwa laba yikosa. Lokhu kuyisibonelo esibonakalayo sokuthi emhlabeni we-puer i-eksisi ye-形制 (ifomu lomkhiqizo) iphila ngokuhlukile kuma-eksisi e-唛号 (iresiphi enezinombolo), grade (ubumnene bezinto zokusetshenziswa) kanye ne-味型 (isigxivizo sesifunda sokuvutshelwa).

Lapho i-kosa ime khona ohlelweni lwe-puer

Imephu yezimboni ye-shu-puer ichazwa ngezixhumanisi ezintathu ezizimele.

Owokuqala — iresiphi enezinombolo, 唛号 (màihào): amadijithi amane, lapho amabili okuqala — unyaka wokugunyazwa kwe-blend, owesithathu — ibanga lezinto zokusetshenziswa (umthetho: incane idijithi, imnene kakhulu iqabunga), owesine — imboni (1 — Kunming, 2 — Menghai, 3 — Xiaguan, 4 — Puer). Kanjalo kufundwa kanje: 7572 (iresiphi ka-1975, ibanga lesi-7 lezinto zokusetshenziswa, imboni yase-Menghai, 大益) — i-shu-blin eyireferensi kanye ne-shu-puer enkulu kunazo zonke, umphathi we-«menghai taste», 勐海味; 7581 (iresiphi ka-1975, ibanga lesi-8, imboni yase-Kunming) — i-shu-brick yokuqala ye-中茶 kanye ne-benchmark yefomethi ye-砖; 8592 (iresiphi ka-1985, ibanga lesi-9, Menghai) evela ku-«old five» 老五样, imaholoholo kakhulu, eyaziwa ngamaqembu e-«紫天»; 7262 (Menghai, iresiphi yesimanje, ibanga lesi-6) — i-blend emnene kakhulu, ye-premium ye-大益.

Owesibili — i-grade ngobumnene: kusukela ku-宫廷普洱 (gōngtíng pǔ’ěr, «i-court» — i-bud eyodwa kanye neqabunga elimnene kakhulu, izinga eliphakeme kakhulu lobumnene ku-shu) kwehle ngamabanga.

Owesithathu — i-味型, uhlobo lokunambitheka: 勐海味, 昆明味, 临沧味 — isigxivizo semboni ethile kanye nemvelo yayo (amanzi, i-microflora yasendlini yokusebenzela) ku-渥堆 (wòduī), ukufukulwa okumanzi. Lokhu yi-terroir yokuvutshelwa, hhayi i-terroir yengadi.

Futhi kuphela ngaphezu kwakho konke lokhu kulele ifomu. Ukuthi ifomu liyisigaba esizimele kubonakala ku-销法沱 (xiāofǎtuó): akusilo iresiphi, kodwa i-形制·沱, i-shu-tuo yokuthekelisa yase-Xiaguan, kusukela ngo-1976 eya e-France futhi yaba yimpahla yokuqala yokuthekelisa yetiye yase-China «e-organic»; umlando uhlobene negama lika-雷弗尔 (Refer). I-blin, i-brick, i-tuo, iqabunga elixegayo — amafomethi e-canonical. I-kosa ayingeni ku-canon yezinombolo: ayinayo futhi ayinakuba neyayo 唛号, ngoba i-唛号 ifaka ikhodi iresiphi, ibanga lezinto zokusetshenziswa kanye nemboni, kodwa hhayi i-geometry yomkhiqizo.

Isivumo esithembekile sokuhlela: umkhondo wethu wocwaningo we-shu-puer ubhala amafomethi 饼 / 砖 / 沱 / 散 kanye nomkhiqizo oseceleni 老茶头, akukho ndawo ehlukile ye-«辫子茶» kuwo. Ngakho-ke ngezansi sihlaziya i-«kosa» njengomkhuba wokwakha, sincike kulokho okubhalwe phansi ngezinto zokusetshenziswa, ukuvutshelwa kanye nokucindezelwa kwe-puer, futhi sibeka ngokusobala lapho kuqala khona indawo yokuhlukahluka kwezandla, hhayi indinganiso.

Izinto zokusetshenziswa kanye nezixhumanisi

Isisekelo sezinto ze-«kosa» siyefana nanoma iyiphi i-puer: iqabunga lase-Yunnan elinamaqabunga amakhulu elomiswe elangeni (shàiqīng máochá, 晒青毛茶). Uma i-kosa yenziwe nge-shu, iphrofayili yayo izofundeka ngendlu yokusebenzela yokuvutshelwa — njenge-勐海味 / 临沧味 / 昆明味, hhayi nge-«hlobo lwe-kosa».

Kungani i-kosa idinga izinto zokusetshenziswa ezikhethekile

Lapha ifomu liyala ukukhethwa kwezinto, futhi lesi yisihloko esiyinhloko sobuchwepheshe.

Ungaluka kuphela lokho okunobude nobuqine: iqabunga eliphelele eline-petiole, intambo ende egoqiwe, i-fiber enwebekayo. Kusuka lapha kuvela indida: izinto zokusetshenziswa ezibiza kakhulu ze-kosa azifaneleki kangako. I-宫廷普洱 — i-bud eyodwa kanye neqabunga elincane kakhulu elimnene — liyachitheka, alinakho ukubamba ukuluka; i-grade enjalo ihlala ngendlela exegayo noma ku-blin, kodwa hhayi ku-kosa. Eduze kakhulu amabanga amaholoholo, «esakhiwo» — lolu hlobo lwezinto zokusetshenziswa olusemva kwe-8592 (ibanga lesi-9) noma i-7581 (ibanga lesi-8): lunohlaka.

Isimo sesibili — i-plasticity. Ukwakhiwa kwe-puer kuqala ngokushisa ngesitimu: iqabunga liba lula ukulithoba. I-kosa — logic efanayo, kuphela esikhundleni sendawo yensimbi kanye ne-press kusebenza izandla: intambo eshisiwe iyalukwa, iyadonswa futhi iya komiswa. Kungakho i-kosa kufanele ifakwe ku-造型茶 / 工艺茶 (zàoxíng chá / gōngyì chá) — itiye «elibunjiwe», elakhiwe ngezandla, umakhelwane wama-pumpkin, izidleke kanye namanye ama-形制 anga-standard, hhayi emikhiqizweni ecindezelwe yerejista yemboni.

Okwesithathu — ingozi. I-kosa iwugqinsi futhi ayilingani ngokuminyana: ngaphandle yoma ngokushesha, emgogodleni wentambo umswakama uhlala isikhathi eside. Ku-shu, eye yadlula ku-渥堆, futhi ikakhulukazi ku-sheng, ephila iminyaka ekuguqukeni kwayo okuhamba kancane, lena indawo yokunaka okukhulu ekomeni nasekugcinweni. Kubonisa kahle ukuqhathanisa ne-老茶头 (lǎochátóu): lapho amathumba akheka ngokwawo — i-pectin inamathisela iqabunga ngqo esikebheni sokuvutshelwa, futhi lezi zihlukumezi ezizenzekelayo zinikeza indlela edumile enamathelayo-emnandi futhi ewugqinsi yenhluzi (糯甜醇厚) kanye nesimo se-niche yokuqoqwa. I-kosa — icala eliphambene: isihlukumezi akusona esenzeka ngengozi, kodwa senziwe ngesandla, futhi yonke imithwalo yokuminyana nokomiswa ithathwa yingcweti.

Kunathwa kanjani futhi kwenziwa kanjani

Ukunambitheka kwe-kosa akunqunywa ukuluka, kodwa isisekelo.

Uma isisekelo — i-shu: ukumnika okumnyama, indlela enomhlabathi-nezinkuni, i-nutty futhi «emnandi-ogqinsi», ekubunjweni kwase-Menghai — i-勐海味 eyaziwayo. Uma ibanga lezinto zokusetshenziswa limaholoholo, kuba khona ukuqina komzimba kanye nethoni «yezinkuni» ekuphini, uma limnene — iphrofayili icwebile futhi ihlanzekile (i-logic yochungechunge 8592 → 7572 → 7262 → 宫廷). Uma isisekelo — i-sheng, isimilo sizoba ngesonyaka waso nesifunda saso.

Umkhuba wokwenza:

• Hlukanisa, ungaphuli. I-kosa iyalukwa kusuka ekugcineni noma isikwe ngokuphambana nge-awl elincane noma ummese we-puer, uzama ukungagqashuli iqabunga libe yimpushana: intambo ibanjwa ukudonsa futhi ngemva kokusika iyavuleka ngokuzithandela.
• Ukuminyana akunakubikezelwa. Ukuluka ngesandla cishe njalo kunikeza ukucindezelwa okungalingani kunokucindezela; izingcezu ezivela ezingxenyeni ezahlukene ze-kosa zenza ngokuhlukile. Kunengqondo ukuxuba izinto ezivela kungqimba olungaphandle nolwangaphakathi.
• Ukugeza. Ku-shu — ukuhlanza okufushane ngamanzi abilayo kanye nekhefu, ukuze intambo ivuleke; ezingxenyeni eziminyene kuwusizo ukuhlanza okwesibili okufushane.
• Izitsha namanzi. I-gaiwan — ngokuhlaziya ifomu nephunga, i-clay ye-yixing noma i-ceramic ekhulu — uma ufuna ukuqoqa ukugqinsi kwe-shu; amanzi abilayo, amafushane futhi amaningi ama-steep.

Ungayihlukanisa kanjani i-«kosa» yangempela

1. I-kosa kufanele ibe ngeqabunga. Hlola ukusika neziphetho: ingabe imicu yamacembe egoqiwe namapetiole ayabonakala — noma ukuluka kubanjwa ngentambo yangaphandle, intambo, isisekelo esinamathelayo. Isuvenir yokuhlobisa «entambo» — akulona itiye.
2. Lalela umgogodla. Hogela ukusika okusha: ku-kosa eyomiswe kahle iphunga lilingene (ku-shu — iphunga elihlanzekile lokuvutshelwa ngaphandle kwethoni emuncu noma yesikhunta); ukunuka okubolile noma umoya omanzi enkabeni — isignali yokoma okuyinkinga noma ukugcinwa.
3. Ungayifuni i-唛号. Ukungabikho kwenombolo enamadijithi amane ku-«kosa» — kuyinto evamile, hhayi ukukhubazeka: inombolo ifaka ikhodi iresiphi, ibanga nemboni, hhayi ifomu. Ngokuphambene, «i-kosa 7572» kufanele ifundwe njengokunethezeka kokumaketha: 7572 — yi-blin, ifomethi yereferensi yeresiphi yayo.
4. Qhathanisa izinto zokusetshenziswa nefomu. I-«宫廷» emenyezelwe ku-kosa ewugqinsi elukiwe iphikisana ne-physics yezinto: i-grade ye-court imayelana nobumnene obuncane kakhulu, ayinakho ukubamba ekulukeni.
5. Qaphela ngezinganekwane zobudala. Umugqa obhalwe phansi wezinsuku ku-puer — yizimpawu ze-resipiti nezokuthekelisa: 1975 we-7572 ne-7581, 1985 we-8592, 1976 ukuthunyelwa kwe-销法沱 e-France. Uma umthengisi ebeka i-kosa eyakhe «i-chronology yasendulo», funa izizathu: ifomu ngokwalo alinazo.

the teas described here are available from teamotea