fāng zhuān

I-Fang Zhuan akulona uhlobo futhi akusilo iresiphi, kodwa isimo: isitini esiyisicaba esiyisikwele se-pu’er esicindezelwe, esime emgqeni owodwa nebhanana (饼 bǐng), isidleke (沱 tuó) kanye nesitini esingunxande (砖 zhuān). Kuyafaneleka ukuyihlahlela njengesimo: imisa ukuminyana kokucindezelwa, ijubane lokuvuthwa kanye nomkhuba wokwehlukanisa, kuyilapho ukunambitheka kunqunywa yizinto zokusetshenziswa, izinga lokuthamba kweqabunga kanye nesikole sokubila.

Isimo kanye nengqondo yaso

Uhlamvu lwesiShayina 方 lusho “isikwele, isimo esiyisinezimpawu ezine ezilinganayo”. Ekusetshenzisweni kwansuku zonke, i-方砖 iyehlukaniswa “nesitini nje”: i-砖 ngomqondo omncane isho unxande omude (ifomethi yakudala yesitini sokugcina impahla nesokuthutha se-pu’er), kanti i-方砖 isikwele noma icishe ibe yisikwele, ngokuvamile encane futhi izacile, evamise ukuba nezinhlamvu zesiShayina eziqoshiwe ebusweni bangaphambili, ezicindezelwe ngqo efomini lokucindezela.

Inhloso engokoqobo yesimo incike ezintweni ezintathu:

• Ubuhlobo bomphezulu nevolumu. Isitini esiyisikwele esizacile “siphefumula” ngendlela ehlukile kunebhanana eliwugqinsi: sinengxenye enkulu yempahla esemaphethelweni, ethintana nomoya, futhi sinomgogodla omncane ominyene lapho ukuvuthwa kuhamba kancane kakhulu.
• Ukuminyana kokucindezelwa. Amafomethi ezitini ngokwesiko acindezelwa aqine ngaphezu kwamabhanana: lokhu kuyijiyometri yokuthutha, eklanyelwe ukupakishwa ngemigqa. Ukucindezelwa okuqinile kwenza kwehle ukushintshana nomoya futhi kwenza ukuguga kuhambe kancane futhi kulingane.
• Ukukala umthamo. Isikwele sihlephuka sibe izingxenye ezihlelekile ngemigqa yokucindezelwa; amafomethi amancane e-方砖 ngokuvamile aklanywe njengokuthi “isitini esisodwa, ukuphisa okukodwa”, ngaphandle kwe-awl (茶刀).

Indawo kanye nezinto zokusetshenziswa

Izinto ze-方砖 ziyitiye laseYunnan elinamaqabunga amakhulu, 云南大叶种 (yúnnán dàyè zhǒng), izinto zakhona okuthi ngemva kokomiswa elangeni zinikeze i-晒青毛茶 (shàiqīng máochá). Lokhu kuyisemifakhtri efanayo esetshenziswa kumabhanana nasezidlekeni; umehluko phakathi kwezitayela zasefemu awulele esimweni, kodwa ekuxubeni nasezikoleni zokubila.

Kuma-shu-pu’er, umthombo uloba into ebalulekile: ukubila kunophawu lwesifunda, i-味型 (wèixíng), “uhlobo lokunambitheka”. Kuyehlukaniswa i-勐海味 (měnghǎi wèi), i-昆明味 (kūnmíng wèi) ne-临沧味 (líncāng wèi). Uphawu alunikezwa yiqabunga kuphela, kodwa nayifemu ngokwayo: amanzi kanye ne-microflora yamahholo, lapho i-渥堆 yenziwa khona iminyaka eminingi. Engxenyeni yezitini, lolu daba luyathinteka kakhulu: isitini esiyisisekelo se-shu ngokomlando siwaseKunming, kuyilapho i-shu-bing eyisibonelo iyaseMenghai, futhi ingxoxo “ngokunambitheka kwaseMenghai” yenziwa ngqo ngalokhu.

Indlela yokufunda i-唛号 ezitini

Ama-pu’er ezitini ayizindawo zamarisiphi asefemu, aboniswa ngekhodi enezinombolo ezine i-唛号 (màihào). Indlela yokufunda ilula futhi iyafana kuwo wonke amafomethi:

• izimpawu [1–2]: unyaka lapho irisiphi yethulwa khona;
• uphawu [3]: izinga lezinto zokusetshenziswa: uma inombolo incane, iqabunga lithambile;
• uphawu [4]: ifemu: 1 eyaseKunming, 2 eyaseMenghai, 3 eyaseXiaguan, 4 eyasePu’er.

Ikhodi eyinhloko yefomethi yesitini iyi-7581: irisiphi yango-1975, izinga lesishiyagalombili lezinto, ifemu yokuqala (yaseKunming), uphawu lwe-中茶. Lesi yisitini sokuqala se-shu futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo siyisilinganiso sengxenye yonke yezitini: isikhundla esishibhile, sokuqala, okusasetshenziswa kuso namuhla ukukala ukuthi i-pu’er ebile esitini kufanele ibe njani.

Ukuqhathanisa: unyaka ofanayo, isimo esihlukile kanye nefemu ehlukile: i-7572 (1975, izinga lesikhombisa, ifemu yaseMenghai, i-大益) iyi-shu-bing eyisibonelo futhi iyi-shu-pu’er enkulu kunazo zonke, umthwali “wokunambitheka kwaseMenghai”. Eduze kwayo kukhona i-8592 (1985, izinga lesishiyagalolunye, ifemu yaseMenghai; enye “yezinhlanu ezindala”, yaziwa ngezikhathi ze “紫天”, izinto zayo zinkulu kakhulu) kanye neyesimanje i-7262 (izinga lesithupha, ifemu yaseMenghai) umugqa we-大益 we-premium, othambile kakhudlwana.

Izinga lesishiyagalombili kukhodi engu-7581 akusho ukuthi “kubi”, kodwa isinqumo somklamo: iqabunga elivuthiwe, elinkudlwana linikeza isitini isakhiwo nokuqina kokucindezelwa okuqinile.

Isikali sokuthamba kwezinto

Kuma-shu-pu’er kukhona ukuhlukaniswa okukhethekile ngokuthamba kweqabunga: i-宫廷 (gōngtíng, “yasendlini yasebukhosini”) > i-特级 (tèjí, ephakeme kakhulu) > bese kuba amazinga anezinombolo. I-宫廷普洱 iyisitezi esiphezulu: imiqumbe eyodwa neqabunga elithambile kakhulu, eke yadlula ku-渥堆; iyingxenye ye-premium, futhi ivame ukutholakala ixegayo noma emabhananeni kunasefomethi zezitini.

Iphuzu eliphambene: i-老茶头 (lǎo chátóu), izigaxa zemvelo ezihlangana enqwabeni yokubila ngenxa yama-pectin. Lokhu akusilo isimo futhi akulona izinga, kodwa umkhiqizo oseceleni we-渥堆 onokunambitheka okunamathelayo nokumnandi, ukuthungwa okuminyene (糯甜醇厚) kanye nesimo sokuqoqwa okukhethekile. Ukuqonda lokhu kuyasiza nakwizikwele: i-茶头 ibonisa ngokusobala ukuthi “ukunamathelana” kwama-pectin kuthinta kanjani umzimba wokumnika: indlela efanayo ngokwengxenye isebenza nasestinini esicindezelwe ngokuqinile.

Ubuchwepheshe: kusuka ku-毛茶 kuya esitini

Uhlelo lohlobo olubile (熟):

1. I-晒青毛茶: ukulungiswa, ukusongwa, ukomiswa elangeni; isemifakhtri eyisisekelo yaseYunnan.
2. I-渥堆 (wòduī): ukupakishwa kwenqwaba emanzi ngokuphendulwayo; kulapha lapho i-味型 yefemu ethile yakheka khona.
3. Ukuxuba nge-唛号: ukuhlanganiswa kwamazinga ezinto ngesilinganiso esinqunyiwe.
4. I-蒸压: ukufuthwa nokucindezelwa esimweni esiyisikwele; ku-方砖 umhlobiso wenziwa yifomu lokucindezela.
5. Ukomiswa: ukuhamba kancane kuya emazingeni okuswakama okugcina.

Ohlotsheni oluhlaza (生) igxathu lesi-2 alikho: i-毛茶 ixutshwa ngqo futhi icindezelwe, kanti ukuguqulwa kwenzeka eminyakeni yokugcina.

Inomenclature, hhayi isigaba esihlukile

Isitini esiyisikwele siyisi-eksisi yesimo, kuphela. Incazelo yanoma iyiphi i-pu’er yakhiwa ngama-eksisi amaningana azimele: uhlobo (生 noma 熟), isimo (i-散茶 exegayo, ibhanana i-饼, isidleke i-沱, isitini i-砖), izinga lokuthamba kwezinto (宫廷 / 特级 / amazinga anezinombolo), irisiphi yasefemu i-唛号, uphawu lwesifunda lokubila i-味型. I-方砖 ishintsha kuphela ijometri nokuminyana, futhi ngalokho ijubane lokuvuthwa.

Kubalulekile nokuphambene: i-唛号 iyinomenclature yamarisiphi asefemu, hhayi ukumakwa kukahulumeni. Izinombolo ezine zisho unyaka werisiphi, izinga lezinto kanye nefemu, kodwa azithembisi lutho ngesimo noma ngeqembu elithile.

Ukunambitheka nokuphisa

Iphrofayili incike ohlotsheni nasezingeni lokuthamba kwezinto:

• I-熟方砖 evela ezintweni ezivuthiwe (ingqondo ye-7581): ukhuni olomile, isinkwa esimnyama, ubumnandi besundu, ubumsulwa bamaminerali ekunambithekeni kwangemva.
• I-熟方砖 evela ezintweni ezithambile (ingqondo ye-宫廷): iminyene futhi ithambile, ithoni kashokoledi namantongomane, umzimba omnyama, iphunga elifushane “lelibhule” lokubila ekuphiseni kokuqala.
• I-生方砖: isencane: ubumuncu obukhali obunokubuya okusheshayo kwe-回甘, ngokuguga kuya ezithelweni ezomisiwe nasekukhunini okunentaka; ukucindezelwa okuqinile kwelula le ndlela.

Umkhuba: isitini kungcono ukusihlephula ngezendlalelo, hhayi ukuphula izingcezu: ngaleyo ndlela kuba nothuli oluncane futhi ukukhishwa kulingane. Kwe-熟: 8–9 g ku-120–150 ml, amanzi abilayo agcwele, ukugeza okusheshayo imizuzwana engu-5–10 (esitini esiminyene kakhulu kuqondakala ukuthi kube nokugeza okubili okufishane), bese kuba ukuchitheka nge-5–8 amasekhondi ngokunwetshwa kancane kancane. Isikwele esiminyene siyavuleka kamuva kunebhanana: akufanele kwandiswe isikhathi ekuphiseni kokuqala kokuthathu, ngaphandle kwalokho maphakathi nokuphisa kuyokwenziwa kabi.

Umlando nengqikithi yesimo

Isitini ngokomlando siyifomethi yokuthutha neyokugcina: izitini eziyizicaba zipakishwa ngemigqa ngaphandle kokulahleka kwesikhala, okwakubalulekile ekulethweni okukude nasemkhiqizweni kahulumeni. Ukuvela kwe-7581 ngo-1975 kwenza isitini sibe yingqopha-mlando yezobuchwepheshe: lesi yisitini sokuqala se-shu, esabonisa ukuthi i-pu’er ebile ingaba umkhiqizo omkhulu ojwayelekile.

Olunye udaba lweshumi leminyaka elifanayo lubonisa ukuthi isimo sisebenza kanjani ekuthekelweni: i-销法沱 (xiāofǎ tuó) yefemu yase下关 “isidleke esithengiselwa iFulansi”, esafika emakethe yaseFulansi kusukela ngo-1976 futhi sihlotshaniswa negama lomngenisi u-雷弗尔; sibizwa futhi ngokuthi ukuthunyelwa kokuqala kwe-organic kwetiye laseShayina. Isidleke saya eYurophu, isitini sahlala siyifomethi yangaphakathi yokugcina: yingakho izitini eziyizikwele namapuleti esikwele kuvame ukutholakala ngesitayela “sasefemu”, ngaphandle kokucwazimula kokuthunyelwa.

Indlela yokwehlukanisa i-方砖

• Kwisuka ku-砖. I-方砖 iyisikwele noma ipuleti elisondele esikweleni, ngokuvamile elizacile futhi lincane; i-砖 yakudala ingunxande omude, ngokusobala ujule futhi usinda.
• Kusuka ku-饼. Ibhanana liyindilinga, linokucindezela okuphambene ngasemuva okuvela ekucindezelweni esikhwameni; isikwele sicindezelwa efomini eliqinile futhi asinalo “inkaba” enjalo.
• Kwisuka ku-沱. Isidleke siyinhanyu enokucindezela; akunakwenzeka ukudideka ngesibonakaliso.
• I-生 noma i-熟. Iqabunga elomile le-shu limnyama okunsundu kuya kokumnyama, ukumnika akubonakali futhi kunombala onsundu, iqabunga elibilisiwe limnyama ngokulingana futhi liyaphuka. I-sheng ngisho nangemva kokuguga igcina umbala o-olive-nsundu weqabunga nokunwebeka ekubiliseni.
• Funda i-唛号 uma ikhona. Izinombolo ezine esembozweni zinikeza unyaka werisiphi, izinga lezinto kanye nefemu: ngophawu lwesithathu kusobala ngokushesha ukuthi ulindele ukuthamba noma ukuqina kwesakhiwo.
• Hlola ukucindezelwa. Isikwele esilinganayo esinamaphethelo acacile: ifomu lomshini; amaphethelo axegayo nobukhulu obungalingani akuhambisani nefomethi yesikwele futhi kufanele kubuze imibuzo.

Kubalulekile futhi ukukhumbula ngemikhiqizo ecutshunguliwe: i-柑普 / i-小青柑 / i-陈皮普洱 iyi-shu-pu’er ehlanganiswe nekhasi le-citrus laseXinhui (新会陈皮), isigaba esizimele esinengqondo yaso, esingenabo ubuhlobo nezitini eziyizikwele ezicindezelwe.

the teas described here are available from teamotea