lǜchá

I-itiye eliluhlaza akusona isiphuzo esisodwa, kodwa wumndeni wonke, ohlanganiswe ingqondo yobuchwepheshe eyodwa: ukumisa i-oxidation ekuqaleni futhi kulondolozwe ‘ubuluhlaza’ beqabunga. Ukhiye walo mndeni — umsebenzi we-shā qīng (杀青), ‘ukubulawa kohlaza’, kanye naleyo ndlela yokushisa okwenziwa ngayo.

Yini eyenza itiye libe luhlaza

Onke amatiye aluhlaza — kusukela kwelesicaba i-lóng jǐng (龙井) kuya kweligoqekile i-zhū chá (珠茶) — adlula ohlakeni olufanayo:

鲜叶 (摊放) → 杀青 → 揉捻 (做形) → 干燥

Okungukuthi: iqabunga elisha, ukwetwa kancane nokubuna, i-kat-grin, ukusontwa nokubunjwa kanye nokomiswa. Umehluko phakathi kwezinhlobo eziningi ezidumile awukho ekushintsheni kwalolu hlaka, kodwa usezimfihlakalweni zezixhumanisi zalo ezimbili — i-shā qīng (uhlobo lokushisa) kanye ne-zuò xíng (做形, ukunikeza isimo).

Umehluko oyisisekelo wesigaba esiluhlaza kwesibomvu (esimnyama ngokohlelo lwaseNtshonalanga) — usekutheni nini futhi yini eyenziwa yi-enzyme. Etiyeni elibomvu ukusontwa (róu niǎn, 揉捻) kuqala i-oxidation. Kweliluhlaza konke kuhlukile: i-shā qīng enezinga eliphezulu lokushisa yenziwa ngaphambi kokuba i-oxidation iqale ukwenzeka, futhi i-enzyme iyancishiswa amandla.

Ikhemistri: kungani iqabunga lihlala liluhlaza

Umlingiswa osemqoka lapha — i-polyphenol oxidase (多酚氧化酶, PPO). Yile enzyme ngempela ethi lapho kukhona umoya-mpilo i-oxidise ama-catechin, iguqule iqabunga eliluhlaza libe bomvu. Umsebenzi we-shā qīng — ukukhuphula ngokushesha izinga lokushisa leqabunga futhi inciphise amandla e-PPO ngaphambi kokuqala kwe-oxidation. I-oxidation ayicali nje.

Umphumela wakho uba ukulondolozwa kweqoqo lonke lezinto, okwakha iphrofayili yetiye eliluhlaza:

• 茶多酚 (ama-polyphenol etiye, ama-catechin, kuhlanganise ne-EGCG) — abangela ukubaba, ubuhlungu kanye nesakhiwo sonke sokugxilisa;
• 叶绿素 (i-chlorophyll) — umbala oluhlaza weqabunga nokugxilisa;
• 茶氨酸 (i-theanine) — umami nobumnandi;
• ivithamini C.

Ibhalansi yokunambitheka kwetiye eliluhlaza ibambelele ezimbondeni ezintathu: xiān shuǎng (鲜爽, ukuphila okusha okuvela ku-theanine nama-amino acid — kuphakeme ezintweni zokuqala ezivunwe zisencane nezimbozwe ithunzi), kǔ sè (苦涩, ukubaba nobuhlungu okuvela kuma-catechin — kuphakeme ekuvunweni kwasehlobo) kanye ne-huí gān (回甘, ubumnandi obubuyayo).

Kusuka lapha futhi — isici esiyinhloko sokugcinwa kwalo. Itiye eliluhlaza ‘aligugi’ ngendlela enhle, ngokungafani ne-pǔ ěr noma itiye elimhlophe. Okwaziswayo yiqabunga elisha ngempela — i-xīn chá (新茶), amavuno e-míng qián (明前, ngaphambi kwe-Qingming) kanye ne-yǔ qián (雨前, ngaphambi kwe-谷雨, Imvula Yokusanhlamvu). Kufanele ligcinwe endaweni ebandayo, ngaphandle kokukhanya nephunga langaphandle.

Ukubuna nokomiswa: ifulemu elizungeze i-kat-grin

Ngaphambi kokufinyelela ku-shā qīng, iqabunga lidlula ku- 摊放 (tān fàng) — ukwendlalwa ukuze kulahlekelwe umswakama kancane futhi kuqongelele iphunga elimnandi. Lokhu kuthambile futhi kumfushane kunokubuna okujulile (wěi diāo, 萎凋) kwetiye elibomvu: umsebenzi awukona ukuvumela i-oxidation ukuthi iqhubeke, kodwa ukulungiselela iqabunga nje.

Ivala uchungechunge i- 干燥 (ukomiswa) — chǎo gān (炒干, ukuthoswa), hōng gān (烘干, ukomiswa kwehhavini) noma shài gān (晒干, elangeni). Ukomiswa kulungisa isimo futhi kwakhe iphunga: lapho kuthoswa kukhula inothi le-custnut i-lì xiāng (栗香) kanye ‘nokusha kwembiza’ guō qì (锅气), kanti ngehhavini — i-qīng xiāng (清香) ehlanzekile enezimbali notshani.

I-eksisi ye-杀青: izindlela ezinhlanu zokushisa

Yiyona ndlela yokwenza i-shā qīng enquma ‘umfutho’ wephunga letiye. Lena iyona eksisi eyinhloko yokuhlukanisa yesigaba esiluhlaza.

炒青 (chǎo qīng) — okuthoswe embizeni. Iqabunga lishiswa embizeni eshisayo noma esigubhini. Kunikeza i-guō qì (锅气) eyisici kanye ne-custnut i-lì xiāng. Lesi ‘yisikole’ sokuthosa, okungesinye sezinhlobo eziningi ezidumile eziyisicaba nezigingqiwe.

烘青 (hōng qīng) — okwehhovisi. Ukushisa ngomoya oshisayo. Iphunga lihlanzekile futhi lilula — i-qīng xiāng (清香). I-hōng qīng lǜ chá ngempela iyisisekelo setiye le-jasmine namanye amatiye anephunga: isakhiwo seqabunga sehhovisi esixegayo samukela kahle iphunga lezimbali ngesikhathi se-xūn zhì (窨制).

晒青 (shài qīng) — okwelanga. Ukulungiswa nokomiswa kwenzeka ngaphansi kwelanga. Le ndlela inikeza i-shài qīng máo chá (晒青毛茶) — into engavuthiwe okwenziwa ngayo i-sheng pu-erh (pǔ ěr shēng). Okungukuthi itiye eliluhlaza lasezulwini — liyibhuloho eliya esigabeni esihluke ngokuphelele.

蒸青 (zhēng qīng) — okwe-steam. Iqabunga liphathwa nge-steam. Kulondoloza ubuluhlaza obugqamile ngokukhethekile futhi kunikeza inothi le-seaweed hǎi tái xiāng (海苔香, ‘iklwa lasolwandle’). E-China, lesi sikole sifaka i-ēn shī yù lù (恩施玉露); le ndlela futhi iyisisekelo se-sencha yaseJapan (煎茶).

半烘炒 (bàn hōng chǎo) — okuhlanganisiwe. Inhlanganisela yokushisa kwehhavini nokwembiza, kunikeza iphrofayili ephakathi kwe-qīng xiāng ehlanzekile kanye ne-guō qì ezwakalayo.

I-eksisi yesimo: yini eyenziwa i-做形

Uma i-shā qīng inquma iphunga, i-zuò xíng (做形) inquma ukubukeka kwangaphandle — eyesibili iegbe eqinisayo yesigaba. Izibonelo ezimbalwa zamasu kanye nemiphumela yawo:

• huī guō (辉锅) → isimo esiyisicaba (扁), njengaku-lóng jǐng;
• cuō tuán (搓团) → isiphele (螺), njengaku-bì luó chūn (碧螺春);
• lǐ tiáo (理条) → inalithi (针);
• lā lǎo huǒ (拉老火) → i-plate-flake (片), njengaku-guā piàn (瓜片).

Kwezinye izinhlobo ezithambile ngokukhethekile — ngokwesibonelo, tài píng hóu kuí (太平猴魁) — ukubunjwa kuncane, iqabunga lilondolozwa cishe njengokwemvelo.

Iphalethi yokugcina yezimo zetiye eliluhlaza: isicaba / esiphele / enalithi / i-orchid (兰花) / i-plate / ‘imbali’ (朵) / i-pearl eyindilinga (颗粒珠) / ‘ishiya’ (眉).

Ukuxhumana nezinye izigaba

I-itiye eliluhlaza — isigaba esiyinhloko ye-taxonomy yetiye laseShayina, futhi imindeni eminingi engomakhelwane ikhula ngqa kuso:

• 晒青毛茶 (itiye eliluhlaza lasezulwini) → into engavuthiwe ye-sheng pu-erh;
• 烘青绿茶 (itiye eliluhlaza ehhavini) → isisekelo sejasmine namanye amatiye anephunga nge-xūn zhì;
• 蒸青 (i-steam) → ibhuloho lobuchwepheshe letiye eliluhlaza laseJapan;
• 黄茶 (itiye eliphuzi) = itiye eliluhlaza kanye nesinyathelo esengeziwe se-mèn huáng (闷黄, ‘ukutshalwa kuze kuphuzi’).

Ukuqonda lokhu kuxhumana kusiza ukubona ukuthi umngcele wezigaba awudluli esitshalweni, kodwa kwezobuchwepheshe.

Indlela yokuhlukanisa emsebenzini

Ukuze ‘ufunde’ itiye eliluhlaza, kwanele ukugcina engqondweni ifomula: iphunga = uhlobo lomkhiqizo (品种) × 杀青 × isizini yokuvuna × i-terroir.

• Uma eqabungeni elomile nasokugxiliseni kuzwakala ithoni ethosiwe, ye-custnut ‘nokusha kwembiza’ — phambi kwakho kune-chǎo qīng.
• I-qīng xiāng ehlanzekile, elula ethi utshani nezimbali ngaphandle kokusha ikhomba i-hōng qīng (futhi ngokuvamile — itiye eliyisisekelo sokunikeza iphunga).
• Inothi le-seaweed elicacile, elicishe libe ngolwandle — kuwuphawu lwe-zhēng qīng, isikole se-steam.
• Ithoni ecijile, ‘yelanga’ empahleni eyomile engacutshungulwa ekugcineni ingakhuluma nge-shài qīng — ukhokho ongaba khona we-pu-erh.

Ubusha buhlolwa ngokuphila kombala oluhlaza wokugxilisa nangokuzwakala kwe-xiān shuǎng: umbala ofiphele kanye nokunambitheka okuyisicaba, ‘okuphekiwe’ — kuwuphawu lokuthi itiye lilahlekelwe ubusha. Khumbula: esigabeni esiluhlaza, ubudala buyisici esibi, hhayi esihle.

Okuhlobene: ama-eksisi esimo (做形), isondo lephunga, itiye eliluhlaza laseJapan, itiye eliphuzi kanye ne-pu-erh.

the teas described here are available from teamotea