niúròu mǎròu

Phakathi kwama-wulong ase-Wuyishan (武夷岩茶) kuye kwavela ulimi olukhethekile lwabazi, lapho uhlobo ròuguì (肉桂) luyeka nje ukuba uhlobo futhi luphenduka ibalazwe lamadwala: itiye liqanjwa hhayi ngesihlahla, kodwa ngomfantu othize lapho likhula khona. Amagama amabili aduma kakhulu kulo mndeni ‘wenyama’ (肉) — niúròu (牛肉) kanye ne-mǎròu (马肉).

Umkhuba ‘we-肉’: lapho igama lohlobo liba ikheli

Ama-wulong ase-Wuyishan akhelwe phezu komgomo izingcweti zendawo eziphinda njengeqiniso elingenakuphikiswa: yányùn (岩韵, ‘ukuvumelana kwedwala’) = 山场 × uhlobo × ukugazinga. Lapha, shānchǎng (山场) kusho i-micro-terroir, indawo ethile yamadwala, kanti uhlobo luvame ukufana — i-rougui, enye yezimila ‘zasekhaya’ zalesi sifunda (当家品种) kanye ne-shuǐxiān (水仙).

Lapho i-rougui evela emadwaleni ahlukene adumile iqala ukuthengiswa ngayinye, kwavela umdlalo wamagama. Uhlamvu lwesiShayina 肉 (ròu) egameni 肉桂 lusho ‘inyama’, futhi abathengisi baqala ukufinyeza amagama amade bawaqamba izidlaliso ‘zenyama’ ngokususelwa kuhlamvu lokuqala lwegama ledwala:

• 牛肉 (niúròu) — i-rougui evela esigodini sase-牛栏坑 (Niúlánkēng);
• 马肉 (mǎròu) — i-rougui evela edwaleni i-马头岩 (Mǎtóuyán);
• 猪肉 (zhūròu) — evela e-竹窠 (Zhúkē);
• 猴肉 (hóuròu) — evela e-水帘洞 (Shuǐliándòng);
• 羊肉 (yángròu) — evela e-三仰峰 (Sānyǎngfēng);
• 心头肉 (xīntóuròu) — evela e-天心岩 (Tiānxīnyán);
• 龙肉 (lóngròu) — evela e-九龙窠 (Jiǔlóngkē);
• 虎肉 (hǔròu) — evela e-虎啸岩 (Hǔxiàoyán).

I-Niúròu ngokwezwi nezwi ifundeka ngokuthi ‘inyama yenkomo’, mǎròu — ‘inyama yehhashi’, futhi lokhu kungaqondakali kahle okuphathelene nokupheka kube yingxenye yezinganekwane zokumaketha. Kodwa emva kwalo mdlalo kunombono oqinile: wonke umndeni ‘we-肉’ wuhlobo olulodwa lwe-rougui, olusatshalaliswe ezindaweni ezihlukene ze-micro-terroir, futhi wonke umqondo uwukuzwa ukuthi izakhi zofuzo ezifanayo zizwakala kanjani ngendlela ehlukile kuye ngedwala nokugazinga.

I-Terroir: 正岩, 三坑两涧 kanye namadwala amabili ayizinkanyezi

Lonke uhlelo lwase-Wuyishan luhlelwa ngezigaba zeterroir: zhèngyán (正岩, “idwala langempela”) > bànyán (半岩, “idwala elingaphelele”) > zhōuchá (洲茶, itiye lamathala asemfuleni), kulandelwe wàishān (外山) — impahla eluhlaza evela ngaphandle komgogodla. Intengo nodumo kukhula kanye nesigaba — yisona sici esiyinhloko esiphindaphinda intengo emakethe yase-Wuyishan, — futhi omabili amaqhawe ethu angawesigaba esiphezulu, 正岩.

Inhliziyo ye-正岩 ichazwa ngefomula ethi “imifula emithathu, imifudlana emibili, izigodi ezimbili nomgede owodwa” (三坑两涧两窠一洞): 大坑口 · 牛栏坑 · 慧苑坑 · 流香涧 · 悟源涧 · 九龙窠 · 竹窠 · 鬼洞. Imininingwane ebalulekile ngeqembu lethu: i-牛栏坑 (Niúlánkēng) iyingxenye yalomgogodla njengomunye wemifula emithathu, kanti i-马头岩 (Mǎtóuyán) iyi-正岩 ephelele, kodwa ngokusemthethweni ingaphandle komgogodla, nakuba omunye “wemifudlana emibili”, i-悟源涧, usendaweni yayo ngqo.

Ngokuhamba, indawo isebenza ngejometri. I-Niulankeng iwumfantu omncane ojulile: umthunzi, ukuphola, umswakama, ukukhanya okuhlakazekile. I-Matouyan iyindawo evulekile yamadwala: ilanga eliqondile, izinga lokushisa elibanzi elishintsha phakathi nosuku. Kusukela lapha kuvela wonke umehluko — ubekwa ngaphambi kokuba iqabunga lifike enkosini. Ukuhlaziywa okuningiliziwe kwezindawo kudluliselwe ezihlokweni ezihlukene: “I-Niu Rou (牛肉)” kanye “ne-Ma Rou (马肉)”.

I-Cultivar: i-rougui (肉桂)

Kokubili “i-niurou” kanye “ne-marou” kwenziwa nge-cultivar eyodwa — ròuguì (肉桂), enye yezinhlobo “eziphethe” zesifunda (当家品种) kanye ne-shuixian (水仙). Igama libhekisela kusinamoni waseShayina: uphawu oluhlonishwayo lwale cultivar inothi eqondile yezinongo zikasinamoni, abathandi abayibiza ngokuthi i-桂皮香 (guìpí xiāng).

Ibhothani yale cultivar, umlando wayo, amakhemikhali kanye nokuhlaziywa okuphelele kobuchwepheshe — kusehlokweni esithi “I-Rou Gui (肉桂)”. Lapha i-thesisi eyodwa yanele: ingxoxo “nge-niurou” “ne-marou” akuyona ingxoxo ngezihlahla ezihlukene, kodwa yingxoxo nge-cultivar eyodwa “ezimeweni” ezahlukene zamadwala. Ngakho-ke, ukunambitha la matiye ngendlela efanele kuhlala kuwukuqhathanisa kwama-terroir nge-cultivar elinganayo.

Ukucubungula: okufanayo kubo bobabili

Ubucwepheshe bawo womabili la matiye buyafana futhi buwumjikelezo wakudala we-ulong: ukushiswa ngomoya, zuòqīng (做青) — ukunyakaziswa kweqabunga ngezikhathi ezithile nokuphumula, lapho kwakheka khona i-oxidation esemaphethelweni (“iqabunga eliluhlaza elinomphetho obomvu”), ukumiswa (shāqīng, 杀青), ukusongwa, ukwomiswa kanye nesigaba esibalulekile se-Wuyishan bèihuǒ (焙火) — ukushiswa okude ngamalahle ezinkuni, okuhlelwe ngamandla kusuka kokuncane kuya kokugcwele.

Incazelo ephelele yomjikelezo namazinga omlilo — kusehlokweni esithi “I-Rou Gui (肉桂)”; uhlelo olujwayelekile luhlala ku-GB/T 18745-2006 (§6.6) kanye ne-GB/T 35863-2018. Ekuqhathaniseni izindawo ezimbili, umthetho owodwa nje ubalulekile: umlilo uyisici sesithathu esiphindaphindayo sefomula ye-岩韵 kanye nolimi olwehlukile lokunambitha, ngakho-ke ama-terroir aqhathaniswa ngokuthembeka kuphela ngezinga elifanayo lokushiswa.

Amazinga: GB/T 18745 nezigaba ezinhlanu

I-Wuyishan rock tea iwumkhiqizo wesikhombi sendawo, futhi uhlaka lwayo lubekwe izinga likazwelonke i-GB/T 18745-2006 “Umkhiqizo Wesikhombi Sendawo 武夷岩茶”. Izinga lihlukanisa i-武夷岩茶 ngezigaba ezinhlanu: dàhóngpáo (大红袍), míngcōng (名枞 — ezincwadini kuye kwabhalwa nangokuthi 名丛, “izihlahla ezindala eziqanjiwe”), ròuguì (肉桂), shuǐxiān (水仙) kanye ne-qízhǒng (奇种). Nge-肉桂 kuhlinzekwe amagridi ohwebo 特级 / 一级 / 二级.

Kulapho futhi kuhlala khona incazelo esemthethweni ye-aftertaste yamadwala: 岩韵 = 岩骨花香, “amathambo amadwala nephunga lezimbali”. Lesi yisikhathi esingavamile lapho isigaba sokunambitha simiswa khona ngokomthetho.

Kokubili “i-niurou” “ne-marou” ngokusemthethweni ziwela esigabeni 肉桂. Akukho izidlaliso “zenyama”, noma ubunikazi bendawo ethile yedwala okuhlelwa yizinga: ubuqiniso bendawo (牛栏坑 uma kuqhathaniswa ne-马头岩) wudaba lokwethemba umphakeli kanye nobungcweti bezinzwa, hhayi idokhumenti.

Amadwala amabili eduze: ukuqhathanisa

Uphawu	牛肉 · I-Niulankeng (牛栏坑)	马肉 · I-Matouyan (马头岩)
I-Tier ye-Terroir	正岩, umgogodla “三坑两涧两窠一洞” (omunye wemifula emithathu)	正岩, ngaphandle komgogodla; eduze nomfudlana i-悟源涧
Indawo	umfantu omncane ojulile onamawa aphakeme	indawo evulekile yamadwala
Ukukhanya nokufudumala	umthunzi, ukukhanya okuhlakazekile, ukuphola, umswakama	ilanga eliqondile, izinga lokushisa elibanzi elishintsha phakathi nosuku
Iphunga	isinamoni phezu kwethoni “emnyama” yamaminerali, ingaphezulu elinqande	izinongo ezihlanzekile zesinamoni ngaphezu kwesisekelo sezimbali nezithelo
Ukunambitha	ukuminyana, isisindo, i-回甘 ende, “amandla ekuthuleni”	ukuvuleka, ukugqama okunjenge-parfum, “amathambo” (骨) amaminerali
Umlilo ojwayelekile	ophakathi nendawo nogcwele (中火 / 足火)	ophakathi nendawo (中火)
Isigaba sentengo	顶级 / 天价 — ishalofu eliphezulu emakethe	isegimenti ephezulu, ngesinyathelo esisodwa ngezansi
Isihloko esihlukene	”I-Niu Rou (牛肉)"	"I-Ma Rou (马肉)”

Indlela yokwenza itiye iyefana kubo bobili futhi ilandela umthetho ojwayelekile we-rock ulong: i-gàiwǎn yobumba noma itiye le-Yixing levolumu encane, ukuminyana okuphezulu, amanzi acishe abe ngu-95 – 100 °C, ukupholi kokuhlambulula okusheshayo kanye nochungechunge lwama-infusions amafushane anwetshwa kancane kancane. I-rock rougui enhle ithwala kalula ama-infusions angu-8 — 10: umlilo uyanambitheka kuma-infusions okuqala, “ubudwala” — eduze naphakathi kweseshini. Kungakho leli qembu liqhathaniswa ngesikhathi esisodwa, ngezitsha ezifanayo nangamanzi afanayo — uma kungenjalo umehluko wezindawo uyaminza emehlukweni wezindlela zokwenza.

Umlando namasiko

I-Wuyishan iyisizinda somlando sama-wulong, indawo leyo ogama layo emithonjeni yaseYurophu yekhulu le-18 nele-19 lalizwakala ngokuthi ‘Bohea’ (okonakele okuthi 武夷). I-Rougui, nokho, yafika phambili emuva nje: phakathi nekhulu lama-20 yasuka ekubeni isilimo sendawo yaphenduka enye yezimpawu zesifunda kanye ne-shuixian epholile namanzi. Uhlu lwamagama ‘enyama’ luyinto esencane kakhulu, umkhiqizo wokudlondlobala kwemakethe emashumini eminyaka amuva, lapho ukuhweba ngetiye ngalinye elivela emadwaleni athile kwenza i-micro-terroir yaba yinto eqoqwayo. Kungaleso sikhathi lapho i-‘niurou’ yaba uphawu lwesikhundla, futhi wonke umndeni we-肉 waba ibalazwe elisebenziseka kalula lamakheli asemadwaleni.

Indlela yokuhlukanisa

• I-Cultivar yinye. Uma unikezwa “i-niurou” “ne-marou” njengama-cultivar ahlukene — lokho kuyiphutha: zombili ziyi-rougui.
• Umehluko use-terroir. I-牛栏坑 (umfudlana, umthunzi, ukuphola) uma iqhathaniswa ne-马头岩 (amadwala avulekile, ilanga); kusukela lapha kuvela “ukujula nokuzithiba” uma kuqhathaniswa “nokucace nokugqama”.
• Ungaphambanisi i-terroir nokushiswa. Umehluko ku-yányùn kufanele uzweke ngaphezu kwezinga lomlilo; uma lonke uhlamvu lwetiye luyizithoni ezishile ne-caramel kuphela, ubhekene nephrofayili yokushiswa, hhayi eyendawo.
• Qhathanisa ngepari. Inkosi eyodwa, unyaka owodwa, izinga lomlilo elilodwa, izitsha ezifanayo — kuphela ngaleyo ndlela umehluko wamadwala uyeka ukuba wudaba lokholo.
• Qaphela ngobuqiniso. I-牛栏坑 yangempela incane kakhulu ngokomzimba, futhi iningi le-”niurou” yasemakethe iyi-rougui evela ezindaweni ezingomakhelwane noma ezingadumile kangako. Azikho izimpawu ezinokwethenjelwa “zensimu”: ubuqiniso bunikezwa idumela lomthombo kanye nolwazi lokunambitha, hhayi inani noma igama elihle.

Umqondo oyinhloko “we-niurou” “ne-marou” ulula futhi uhlakaniphile: i-cultivar eyodwa, amadwala amabili, inkosi eyodwa yokushisa — futhi kuyazwakala ukuthi i-terroir uqobo iyakhuluma.

the teas described here are available from teamotea