mǎ ròu

Ngaphansi kwegama lesidlaliso elithi mǎ ròu (马肉, ngokwezwi nezwi “inyama yehhashi”) e-Wuyishan akuqondwa nhlobo inyama, kodwa i-wulong i-rougui (肉桂, ròuguì), ekhule endaweni yaseMatouyan (马头岩, mǎtóuyán) — iDwala Lasehhashi. Lokhu kungenye yezinto ezaziwa kakhulu “emndenini wenyama” wamatiya asezindaweni eziwugwadule ase-Wuyishan, lapho igama lakhiwa nge-shanchang (山场, shānchǎng, indawo-terroir) kanye nohlobo lwembewu. I-Mǎ ròu — akulona uhlobo oluhlukile futhi akusilo umkhiqizo ojwayelekile, kodwa igama lokuhweba neterroir: i-rougui yemvelaphi yaseMatouyan ngqo.

1. Ukuhlukaniswa Ngokwezigaba kanye Nemvelaphi:

• Uhlobo: i-Wuyi rock oolong (武夷岩茶, wǔyí yánchá, “itiye le-rock”; emithonjeni yomlando yaseYurophu — i-Bohea); i-rougui cultivar evela endaweni yaseMatouyan.
• Isigaba esivamile: ngokwezinga likazwelonke lokukhomba indawo i-GB/T 18745-2006 “Umkhiqizo Wendawo 武夷岩茶”, itiye lidlula ngesigaba se-肉桂 esinamabanga ohwebo 特级 / 一级 / 二级. Igama uqobo “马肉” — elesemakethe, hhayi elejwayelekile: izinga lilawula i-cultivar, izinto ezingavuthiwe kanye ne-organoleptics, kodwa alizibophi izidlaliso zendawo.
• Imvelaphi: I-China, isifundazwe saseFujian, izintaba zaseWuyishan, i-rock massif i-Matouyan (马头岩, mǎtóuyán) — “Itshe Lehhashi”.
• Izinga le-terroir: zhèngyán (正岩) — isitezi esiphezulu sezitebhisi ze-terroir zaseWuyishan.
• Indawo yokuthola umongo ojwayelekile: i-rougui cultivar njengenjwayelo — i-botany, ubuchwepheshe, amakhemikhali, umlando — ichazwe esihlokweni esithi “I-Rou Gui (肉桂)”; izitebhisi ze-terroir 正岩 / 半岩 / 洲茶 kanye nalo lonke uhlelo lwezidlaliso “zenyama” — esihlokweni esithi “I-Niurou ne-Marou (牛肉马肉)”.

2. Umlando kanye Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko:

• Igama lendawo: i-Matouyan iqanjwe ngezimpawu ze-rock ridge, efana nekhanda lehhashi. Isidlaliso esithi mǎ ròu sakhiwe ngohlamvu lokuqala lwendawo (马) kanye nesifinyezo sika-肉桂 (肉) futhi namuhla sisebenza njengekhadi lokuvakasha lawo wonke umgwaqo.
• Ukwakhelana nomnyombo wendawo evikelekile: i-Matouyan ingeyesigaba se-正岩, kodwa ayifakiwe ku-micro-core uqobo “三坑两涧两窠一洞” (“imifantu emithathu, izifudlana ezimbili, ukuguguleka okubili kanye nomgede owodwa”). Ngasikhathi sinye, esinye “sezifudlana ezimbili” zomnyombo — i-Wuyuanjian (悟源涧, wùyuánjiàn) — sisesifundeni saseMatouyan, futhi lokhu kwakhelana ngokuyinhloko kunquma isithunzi sendawo.
• Indawo emakethe: ezilinganisweni zama-rougui endawo zase-Wuyishan, i-mǎ ròu ihlala endaweni yesibili — ngokushesha ngemuva kwe-niú ròu yaseNiulankeng, — futhi ithathwa njengesibonelo se-terroir “enkulu”, evulekile.
• Ubusha balo mkhuba: umkhuba uqobo wokuthengisa itiye ngeqatha ngalinye ngokwetshe elithile — wuphawu lwe-Wuyishan yesimanje, evuthiwe ngokwemakethe; umlando we-cultivar nesifunda ulotshwe esihlokweni esithi “I-Rou Gui (肉桂)”.

3. Incazelo Yezezitshalo kanye Nezinto Ezingavuthiwe:

Noma iyiphi i-mǎ ròu yangempela — iyi-rougui cultivar (肉桂, ròuguì), hhayi isihlahla esihlukile: isidlaliso sikhomba kuphela endaweni. Incazelo ye-botanical ye-cultivar, indawo yayo phakathi kwama-cultivar “anomndeni” ase-Wuyishan (当家品种) kanye ne-shuixian, uhlamvu lwesimiso kanye nenothi yomkhiqizo yamagxolo e-cinnamon (桂皮香, guìpí xiāng) kuchazwe esihlokweni esithi “I-Rou Gui (肉桂)”.

Okwalesi sihloko, into eyodwa ebalulekile nge-cultivar iwukuthi: i-rougui “ibamba” kahle i-terroir. Isihlahla esifanayo ezindaweni ezihlukene ze-shānchǎng sikhipha amatiye ahluke ngokusobala — yingakho izidlaliso zendawo zinengqondo nhlobo, futhi ukuqhathanisa i-mǎ ròu ne-niú ròu kuhlala kuyisenzo esithandwayo sabahlaziyi baseWuyishan.

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezici Zokutshala:

I-Terroir — iyona kuphela into eyehlukanisa i-mǎ ròu kunoma iyiphi enye i-rougui, ngakho-ke ukuhlaziywa kwendawo kungukuthile kwalesi sihloko.

• Isimo sendawo: i-Matouyan — akuyona into efakwe emifantwini, kodwa i-rock massif evulekile. Lokhu kuyisisekelo: emifantwini ecindezelekile yomnyombo ovikelekile, ukukhanya nesimo sezinga lokushisa kunqunywa izinhlangothi eziphakeme, lapha iziqephu zetiyeni zilele ezindaweni ezivulekile phakathi kokuvezwa kwamatshe.
• Ukukhanya nokushisa: ilanga eliqondile e-Matouyan liphawuleka kakhulu kunase-Niulankeng enomthunzi, futhi izinguquko zokushisa zansuku zonke zibanzi. Ukuvuleka kwendawo — yimbangela yokuqala yaleso simo “esivulekile”, samakha, i-mǎ ròu ehlonishwa ngaso.
• Inhlabathi: amadwala agugulekile e-volcanogenic-sedimentary anensada yamathambo anamatshe nokukhishwa kwamanzi okukhululekile. Emarekhodini aseWuyishan, i-Matouyan idlula “njenge-shānchǎng yamaminerali edumile” ene-骨 ecacile (“uhlaka lwamathambo”) ekumnandiseni.
• Amanzi: umakhelwane i-Wuyuanjian (悟源涧) — enye “yezifudlana ezimbili” zomnyombo ovikelekile — igcina umswakama ophakeme ezigodini eziseduze.
• Kuyini i-岩韵: i-GB/T 18745-2006 ichaza ukunambitheka kwe-rock emva kwefomula 岩骨花香 — “uhlaka lwamathambo lwetshe nephunga lezimbali”. Le ncazelo esemthethweni ichaza kahle iphrofayili yaseMatouyan: uhlaka lwamaminerali, laphezulu lapho kuvela iphunga le-cultivar.
• Ifomula yendawo: 岩韵 = 山场 × 品种 × 焙火. I-Matouyan inikeza isici sokuqala; esesibili nesesithathu — zivamile kuyo yonke i-cultivar futhi zichazwe esihlokweni esithi “I-Rou Gui (肉桂)”.

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza:

Umjikelezo ophelele we-Wuyi oolong — ukubuna, “ukunyakazisa” okuphindaphindiwe — i-oxidation yamaqabunga (做青, zuòqīng), ukulungiswa (杀青), ukusontekisa, ukomiswa — kanye nokwehlukaniswa ngokwezinga lokuqedwa ngomlilo 焙火 (轻火 / 中火 / 足火) kuchazwe esihlokweni esithi “I-Rou Gui (肉桂)”. Uhlelo olujwayelekile lubhalwe ku-GB/T 18745-2006 (§6.6) kanye ne-GB/T 35863-2018.

Okwe-mǎ ròu, okuyingqayizivele akuwona umjikelezo uqobo, kodwa ukuthi umlilo uhlala kanjani ezintweni ezingavuthiwe zaseMatouyan. Indawo ekhanyayo, evulekile ikhipha amaqabunga aphezulu e-cultivar ebonakalayo, ngakho-ke umlilo omaphakathi (中火) — ifomethi evamile yokusebenza ye-rougui — ibonakala ifaneleka ikakhulukazi lapha: ishiya ubumnandi be-cinnamon bufundeka futhi ngasikhathi sinye iveza uhlaka lwamaminerali. Itiye laseMatouyan elinomlilo ogcwele (足火) liyawumela, kodwa umbono wangaphambili ngalesi sikhathi ushintshela emathoni ashisiwe-caramel, futhi umehluko wezindawo ufunda kanzima. I-mǎ ròu efanayo emlilweni omncane nogcwele ibonakala njengamatiye amabili ahlukene.

6. Izici Ze-Organoleptic:

• Umlingiswa ojwayelekile: itiye elivulekile, elinephunga elimnandi nelicacile. Iphrofayili yaseMatouyan ngokwesiko ichazwa njengobumnandi be-cinnamon ohlanzekile ngaphezu kwesisekelo sezimbali nezithelo — ngaphandle “kwendwangu engemuva” emnyama, ngombono wangaphambili ocacile.
• Iphunga: inothi ye-cultivar yamagxolo e-cinnamon (桂皮香) erejista engenhla, uhlelo oluphakathi lwezimbali nezithelo, kumatiye omlilo omaphakathi nogcwele — izithunzi zezithelo ezomisiwe kanye ne-caramel zokugazinga.
• Ukunambitheka nokuthungwa: umzimba ominyene, kodwa ongesindi; “uhlaka lwamathambo” lwamaminerali (骨), ngenxa yalokho i-Matouyan ibalwa kumarekhodi njenge-shānchǎng yamaminerali; ubukhona obubonakalayo, obuhlanzekile bamatshe ekunambithekeni ngemuva kanye nokubuya okumnandi okuhlala isikhathi eside (回甘, huígān).
• Ihluke ngani kumakhelwane: uma kuqhathaniswa ne-niú ròu eminyene futhi “ehleli ejulile”, i-mǎ ròu ibonakala inomoya futhi inephunga elivuleke kakhudlwana. Ukuqhathanisa okunwetshiwe kwalezi zindawo ezimbili — esihlokweni esithi “I-Niurou ne-Marou (牛肉马肉)”.
• Isibopho: iqoqo elithile lihlala lixhomeke onyakeni, isandla somphathi kanye nezinga lomlilo — i-terroir ifundeka ngaphezulu kwazo, hhayi esikhundleni sazo.

9. Ukuphisa:

Ukuphisa kuvumelaniswa nezinga lokugazinga. Izinkomba ezijwayelekile:

• Izitsha: i-gaiwan noma i-teapot yase-Yixing yomthamo omncane, ukugoqwa kweqabunga okuminyene;
• Amanzi: asondele ebilini (cishe 95 – 100 °C);
• Ukuthululela: okufushane, ngokukhipha ngokushesha; ukungena kokuqala — imizuzwana embalwa, ngokuhamba kwesikhathi ubude besikhathi buyandiswa kancane kancane;
• Inani lokuthululela: okuningi — i-mǎ ròu yekhwalithi iyazivula ngamagagasi futhi ayihlali phansi isikhathi eside.

Kumatiya omlilo onamandla, ikhefu elifushane ngemva kokuthenga liyawusiza: i-rougui egazingwe kahle izivula kangcono, uma ivumela “umlilo” ukuba uhlale phansi.

11. Intengo kanye Nemikhohliso:

• Isigaba sentengo: i-mǎ ròu — isigaba esiphezulu semakethe yase-Wuyishan. Izinkomba mayelana ne-yánchá iyonke: itiye elisezingeni eliphansi (i-洲茶 yasemathafeni, ama-cultivar ajwayelekile) — cishe 200 – 800 ¥/kg; izinga elimaphakathi (半岩, ama-名丛 avamile) — 800 – 4,000 ¥/kg; ama-rougui endawo amahle 正岩 — 4,000 – 20,000 ¥/kg; ishalofu eliphezulu (牛栏坑肉桂 kanye nomnyombo “三坑两涧”) lifinyelela amashumi ezinkulungwane nangaphezulu. I-Mǎ ròu iphila ebangeni langaphambilini kulawa: ibiza kakhulu kune-正岩 evamile futhi ibiza kancane ngokuphawulekayo kune-niú ròu.
• Okukhokhelwayo: indawo (isici sokuqala sefomula ye-岩韵), ikhwalithi yezinto ezingavuthiwe ngebanga 特级 / 一级 / 二级 kanye nesandla somphathi emlilweni. Unyaka neqoqo kushintsha intengo kakhulu kunalokho okuvame ukucatshangwa.
• Indlela yokuhlukanisa:
  • I-rougui, hhayi isihlahla esihlukile. I-mǎ ròu yangempela ihlala iyi-rougui cultivar; “马肉” ikhomba kuphela imvelaphi yaseMatouyan.
  • Hlola i-岩韵, hhayi ubukhulu begama. Funani i-岩骨花香 — uhlaka lwamaminerali kanye nephunga le-cultivar eliphilayo. Ukunambitheka okungenalutho, okuyisicaba okunegama elibizayo — kuyisizathu sokungabaza.
  • Iphunga le-cultivar liphoqelekile. Ubumnandi be-cinnamon obubonakalayo ngaphezulu kwesisekelo sezimbali nezithelo — yisiginesha ye-rougui; ukungabikho kwayo akujwayelekile.
  • Iphrofayili kufanele ihambisane nomlilo oshiwo (qīng / zhōng / zú huǒ) — ngaphandle kobukhali “bokushiswa” nangaphandle kobumanzi obungaphekiwe.
  • Ukuqhathanisa ngababili. Indlela engcono kakhulu yokulinganisa umbono — ukubeka eceleni i-mǎ ròu ne-niú ròu yomphathi oyedwa nonyaka owodwa: nge-cultivar efanayo nomlilo ofanayo, umehluko uzoba “ubuso” beLitye Lehhashi.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo:

• Igama “马肉” lifundeka ngokoqobo njenge “nyama yehhashi” — lokhu kuwumdlalo wamagama: uhlamvu lokuqala luthathwe egameni letshe i-Matouyan (马头岩, “Itshe Lekhanda Lehhashi”), olwesibili (肉) — luyisifinyezo sika-肉桂.
• Ezinhla eziphezulu zase-Wuyishan, i-mǎ ròu ilandela i-niú ròu, kodwa izigaba zazo zentengo zihlukile: i-Niulankeng ibalwa esigabeni “顶级 / 天价” (“eliphezulu / intengo yezulu”), i-Matouyan — isesigabeni esiphezulu. Umehluko wentengo phakathi komakhelwane mkhulu kunomehluko ezilinganisweni zokuhlaziya.
• I-Wuyuanjian (悟源涧) — “isifudlana somthombo wokukhanyiselwa” — enye “yezifudlana ezimbili” ze-micro-core evikelekile, futhi isesifundeni saseMatouyan: ngokusemthethweni indawo ingaphandle komnyombo, kodwa ngokomzimba — iseduze nawo.

the teas described here are available from teamotea