tóng mù guān hóng chá

I-Tunmuguan ebomvu itiye (桐木关红茶, Tóngmù Guān hóngchá) yigama elihlanganisayo lamatiye abomvu (kwegama lasentshonalanga — amnyama) azalelwa edolobhaneni laseTunmu kanye nasendaweni ezungeze ichopho lentaba iTunmuguan, enkabeni yendawo yokulondoloza imvelo yaseWuyishan enyakatho yesifundazwe saseFujian. Yilezi zintaba ezithathwa njengendawo yomlando yalo lonke itiye elibomvu lomhlaba: kwakulapha lapho kwavela khona iZhengshan Xiaozhong (正山小种, Zhèngshān Xiǎozhǒng) ngasekupheleni kwekhulu leshumi nesithupha neleshumi nesikhombisa, kwathi ngo-2005 kwavela iJin Jun Mei (金骏眉, Jīn Jùn Méi) edumile yamaqabunga amancane. Isikhundla esithi “iqabunga elilodwa” (单芽, dān yá) sisho isitayela esithambile kunazo zonke, esiyiqabunga kuphela sasendaweni, esihlobene nama-junmei. Emehlukanisa namanye amatiye abomvu amaningi, iTunmuguan ihlukaniswa ngemvelaphi yezintaba eziphakeme, impahla eluhlaza yasendle nengaphandle kancane yezihlahla zetiye zasendaweni, kanye nesimo esiqinile sokulondolozwa kwemvelo, okunciphisa umthamo wokukhiqiza.

1. Ukwahlukaniswa Nendabuko

Uhlobo: itiye elibomvu (elivutshelwe ngokuphelele) — 红茶 (hóngchá).
Isigaba: isitayela sesifunda, esihlanganisa ama-xiaozhong (小种, xiǎozhǒng) asendulo kanye namatiye amaqabunga omndeni wama-junmei (骏眉, jùnméi); lesi sikhundla — esenziwe ngamaqabunga awodwa (单芽, dān yá), okusho ukuthi uhlobo oluphakeme, “olusagolide” ngokwezinga.
Imvelaphi: idolobhana laseTunmu (桐木村, Tóngmù Cūn) kanye nechopho iTunmuguan (桐木关), idolobha laseWuyishan (武夷山市, Wǔyíshān Shì), isifunda saseNanping (南平市, Nánpíng Shì), isifundazwe saseFujian (福建省, Fújiàn Shěng).
Indawo: inkaba yesizinda sikazwelonke sokulondoloza imvelo saseWuyishan, cishe u-27°40′–27°50′ enyakatho kanye no-117°30′–117°50′ empumalanga, ekuphakameni okusukela cishe kumamitha angu-700 kuya kwangu-1200, ezinye iziqephu ngaphezulu.
Umqondo “wentaba yangempela”: igama elithi 正山 (zhèngshān, “intaba yeqiniso”) ngokomlando lisho itiye elivela enkabeni yaseTunmu ngokuhlukile kwelithi 外山 (wàishān, “izintaba zangaphandle”) — okungamampunge avela ezindaweni eziseduze nasezindaweni ezingeyona.

Amazinga omkhakha ezinhlobonhlobo eziseduze: GB/T 13738.3 «I-Tiye Elibomvu. Ingxenye 3. Itiye elibomvu i-xiaozhong» (小种红茶) kanye nezinga likazwelonke le-Jin Jun Mei GB/T 32720—2016 (金骏眉茶). I-Zhengshan Xiaozhong yaseTunmu ivikelwe njengomkhiqizo onophawu lwendawo.

2. Umlando Nokubaluleka Kwamasiko

Ukuvela: isiko lithi ukuvela kwetiye elibomvu eTunmu kwenzeka ngasekupheleni kwenkathi yeMing — ekuqaleni kweQing (cishe ngasekupheleni kwekhulu leshumi nesithupha neleshumi nesikhombisa). Inganekwane eyaziwa kakhulu ixhumanisa ukuzalwa kwe-xiaozhong nokuphoqeleka ukomiswa kwetiye ngesivinini phezu kwentuthu kaphayini.
Ukuthunyelwa Ngaphandle kanye ne-«Bohea»: ngekhulu leshumi nesikhombisa neshumi nesishiyagalombili itiye laseWuyishan lalithunyelwa eYurophu; igama elithi 武夷 ngendlela yasendaweni yokubiza laletha igama lesiNgisi elithi «Bohea», kanti i-xiaozhong ebhenywayo (ngokwesiko lasentshonalanga — iLapsang Souchong) yaba elinye lamatiye amnyama okuqala ase China awaziwa eBrithani.
Ukuzalwa kwe-junmei: ngo-2005 eTunmu izingcweti ezaziholwa nguJiang Yuanxun (江元勋, Jiāng Yuánxūn) kanye nomhluzi wetiye uLiang Junde (梁骏德, Liáng Jùndé) badala iJin Jun Mei — itiye elibomvu elakhiwe ngamaqabunga kuphela ngaphandle kokubhenywa. Lesi senzakalo empeleni saqala kabusha imakethe yangaphakathi yetiye elibomvu eChina.
Izigaba ze-junmei: uhlelo lwezitezi ezintathu lwasungulwa — iJin Jun Mei (金骏眉, amaqabunga kuphela), iYin Jun Mei (银骏眉, Yín Jùn Méi, iqabunga nekhasi) kanye neTong Jun Mei / Xiaochigan (铜骏眉/小赤甘, impahla eluhlaza evuthiwe kakhudlwana).

3. Incazelo Yezitshalo Nempahla Eluhlaza

Uhlobo: Camellia sinensis var. sinensis — uhlobo olunamaqabunga amancane.
Isitshalo: inhlanganisela yembewu yasendaweni iWuyi Caicha (武夷菜茶, Wǔyí cài chá) — akuyona ikhlo, kodwa inhlanganisela yofuzo ehlukahlukene, ephindwenziswa ngembewu; kusuka lapha ubunkimbinkimbi bemvelo bephunga elimnandi.
Impahla eluhlaza yalesi sikhundla: amaqabunga angakavuleki angawodwa (单芽) okuvunwa kwasentwasahlobo, anoboya obuningi obusagolide (金毫, jīn háo).
Isimo sokuvuna: ngenxa yokuphakama, ukukhula kweTunmu kwenzeka kamuva, ukuvunwa kwamaqabunga kwenzeka ikakhulukazi ngasekupheleni kwentwasahlobo; ukuze kutholakale u-500 g wetiye elenziwe ngamaqabunga kuphela, kudingeka amashumi ezinkulungwane zamaqabunga, okunquma intengo ephezulu.

Ikhasi eliyiqabunga ngokuphelele linikeza imicu emincane emangalayo kanye nezinto eziningi ezincibilikayo, ngakho-ke umgando uthambile, unobumnandi obugqamile futhi awunabo ubukhali obubabayo.

4. I-Terroir kanye Nezimpawu Zokukhulisa

Isimo sendawo: izintaba nezigodi, nemithambeka eyigqinsi, izihosha nemifudlana; indawo ephakeme kakhulu — intaba iHuanggang (黄岗山, Huánggāng Shān, amamitha angu-2160,8), “isikebhe sophahla” lwaseMpumalanga yeChina.
Isimo sezulu: kupholile, kunomswakama, kunenkungu njalo kanye nomehluko omkhulu wamazinga okushisa phakathi kosuku nobusuku; isikhathi eside sokumbozwa ngamafu sihlakaza ukukhanya futhi sibambezele ukukhula kwamahlumela.
Umhlabathi: amadwala agugile anengxubevange yezinto eziphilayo, amanzi ageleza kahle emithambekeni.
Imvelo: indawo — isizinda esiqinile sokulondolozwa kwemvelo (into ephindwe kabili yeGugu Lomhlaba le-UNESCO kusukela ngo-1999: eyesiko neyemvelo). Imikhawulo emisebenzini yezomnotho inomthelela ekusetshenzisweni okuncane kakhulu kwekhemikhali yezolimo nokulondolozwa kwezitshalo ezingaphandle kancane.

Inhlanganisela yokuphakama, inkungu kanye nokukhula okunensayo kukhuphula ingxenye yezandulela zephunga elimnandi kanye nama-amino acid emaqabungeni, okudala uhlamvu “lwentaba” oluqashelwayo (山场韵, shānchǎng yùn).

5. Ubuchwepheshe Bokukhiqiza

Kwisitayela esingenantuthu seqaabunga elilodwa (uhlobo lwe-jin jun mei) kusetshenziswa uhlelo oluyisisekelo lwetiye elibomvu ngaphandle kokubhenywa kukaphayini:

Ukuvuna (采摘, cǎizhāi): ukukhethwa kwamaqabunga awodwa.
Ukwethisa ubuthongo (萎凋, wēidiāo): ukwehlisa umswakama nokuqalisa izinqubo zokubila, endlini noma ngokushisa okuthe xaxa.
Ukunyangwa (揉捻, róuniǎn): ukunikeza isimo nokubhidliza izindonga zamangqamuzana okwenzela ukugqwaliwa.
Ukubila nokugqwaliwa (发酵/渥红, fājiào / wòhóng): ikhasi lithola ithoni ebomvu yethusi, kwakheka iphunga elimnandi loju nezithelo.
Ukomisa (干燥, gānzào): ukuqeda ukoma emalahleni noma emshinini wokomisa ngogesi; intuthu kaphayini ayisetshenziswa.

Ngokuqhathanisa, i-Zhengshan Xiaozhong yasendulo ebhenywayo iqhubeka nge-«bhodwe elibomvu» (过红锅, guò hóng guō) — ukugazingwa okusheshayo ukuze kumiswe ukubila — kanye nokubhenywa esakhiweni esikhethekile sokomisa i-qinglou (青楼, qīnglóu) ngentuthu kaphayini waseMawei (马尾松, mǎwěisōng), okunikeza ithoni eyaziwayo yentuthu kaphayini (松烟香, sōngyānxiāng). Esitayeleni seqabunga elilodwa lesi sigaba asikho.

6. Izimpawu Zokuzwa Ngezitho Zomzimba

Iqabunga elomile: amaqabunga amancane asongekile aqinile, umbala uhlanganisa amathoni amnyama nsundu nawagolide (inhlanganisela yegolide namnyama), anoboya obubonakalayo.
Umgando: obala, kusukela ephuzi elisagolide kuya kweliluhlaza okwenyanga, ugqamile.
Iphunga elimnandi: loju (蜜香, mìxiāng), izimbali nezithelo (花果香, huāguǒxiāng), namathoni e-longan (桂圆, guìyuán) kanye nobumnandi obuncane be-malt nobhatata.
Ukunambitheka: kuthambile, kumnandi, kuhlanganisiwe, nokunambitheka okuhlala njalo ngemuva (回甘, huígān); etiyeni eliyiqabunga elisezingeni eliphezulu ukubaba nokuhwamuka akugqamile.
Isisekelo (叶底, yèdǐ): amaqabunga awodwa alinganayo athambile, anwebekayo, ombala wethusi ne-golide.

7. Ukwakheka Kwamakhemikhali

Ama-polyphenol etiye (茶多酚, chá duōfēn): agqwalisiwe ngokwengxenye ngesikhathi sokubila, izinga lawo limaphakathi.
Ama-theaflavin nama-thearubigin (茶黄素/茶红素, chá huángsù / chá hóngsù): imikhiqizo yokugqwala, enquma umbala womgando, “ukugqama” kanye nohlamvu lokunambitheka.
I-caffeine (咖啡碱, kāfēijiǎn): empahleni eluhlaza eyiqabunga iphezulu uma kuqhathaniswa.
Ama-amino acid (氨基酸, ānjīsuān): kuhlanganise ne-theanine; emaqabungeni ingxenye yawo iphakeme, okunikeza i-umami nobumnandi.
Izinhlanganisela zephunga elimnandi: zakha isixha soju nezithelo.

Amanani aqondile ancike ebhentshini elithile, unyaka kanye nesiqephu sendawo, ngakho-ke akulungile ukuwanikeza njengamamaki angashintshi; lapha okubalulekile isithombe esibanzi: etiyeni elibomvu eliyiqabunga elilodwa umnikelo wama-amino acid uphezulu kanti ingxenye ye-polyphenol ithambile, kunamatiyeni amahle abomvu anamaqabunga amakhulu.

8. Izakhiwo Eziwusizo

Uhlamvu lokufudumeza: ngokwemibono yomuthi wesintu wamaShayina, itiye elibomvu lithathwa njengelifudumele ngokwemvelo futhi lithambile esiswini kuneliluhlaza.
Ama-antioxidant: ama-theaflavin kanye nama-polyphenol asasele anomsebenzi wokulwa nokugqwala.
Ukuqabula: i-caffeine ihlangene ne-theanine inikeza amandla ngephrofayili ethambile uma kuqhathaniswa.
Ukugayeka kokudla: umgando ofudumele kuthiwa wenza kube lula ukubona ukudla okunamafutha.

Imikhawulo ejwayelekile: uma uzwela nge-caffeine, ntambama, ngesikhathi sokukhulelwa nangezimo ezithile kungcono ukunciphisa ukuqina nomthamo. Sikhuluma ngesiphuzo, hhayi ikhambi, futhi izitatimende “zokwelapha” izifo azinasisekelo.

9. Ukwenza Itiye

Isitsha: i-gaiwan noma i-teapot encane (i-porcelain noma ubumba lwaseYixing) enomthamo ocishe ube ngu-100–120 ml; ukuze ubuke amaqabunga kungasetshenziswa nengilazi.
Isisindo: cishe amagremu angu-3–5 nge-100–120 ml (amaqabunga alula futhi anomthamo mkhulu, qondisa ngomthamo wetiye elomile, hhayi ngesisindo kuphela).
Amanzi: athambile, angu-90–95 °C. Amaqabunga athambile akathandi amanzi abilayo anomsindo, kodwa impahla eluhlaza yaseTunmu esezingeni eliphezulu ikwazi ukuphatha no-95–100 °C; uma kubaba yehlisa izinga lokushisa.
Ukugeza: akudingekile; uma uthanda — ukuwasha ngokushesha.
Ukuthululela (isitayela sokuthululela): imigando yokuqala imizuzwana engu-5–10, bese isikhathi sandiswa kancane kancane; itiye elihle likwazi ukuphatha ukuthululelwa okuyisishiyagalombili kuya kweyishumi nambili kugcinwe ubumnandi.
Indlela yasentshonalanga: cishe amagremu angu-3 ngama-200 ml, 90 °C, imizuzu engu-3–4; kuvumelekile nokuncwiliswa isikhathi eside enkomishini enkulu.

Uphawu lwezinga — ukunambitheka okuhlala njalo okubuyayo kanye nokugcinwa kwephunga elimnandi loju nezithelo ekuthululweni kuye kokunye, ngaphandle kokukhula kokubaba.

10. Ukugcinwa

Isiqukathi: esivaleka ngokuphelele, esingabonisi ukukhanya — isikhwama esino-foil kanye nebhokisi likathayela noma le-ceramic.
Izimo: indawo epholile eyomile engenakho ukukhanya, iphunga elingahlobene kanye nokuguquguquka komswakama; ikhishi eduze kwesitofu nezinongo akulungile.
Isikhathi: itiye elibomvu lizinzile, kodwa amatiye anephunga elimnandi angamacembe angawodwa abonakala kangcono eminyakeni yokuqala engu-1–2; lapho ukusha kulahleka, iphunga elimnandi libuyiselwa ngokwengxenye ngokukomisa okuncane okuphindwayo.
Kubalulekile: leli akulona itiye “lokulondolozwa” iminyaka eminingi ngokohlobo lwe-shu-puer; kugxilwe ebushini besixha.

11. Intengo Namampunge

Itiye lebomvu leqiniso eliyiqabunga elilodwa elivela enkabeni yaseTunmu — lingelinye lamatiyane abomvu abiza kakhulu eChina. I-Jin Jun Mei yeqiniso yaseTunmu ekuthengisweni ngokuvamile ibiza kusuka ezinkulungwaneni ezimbalwa kuya kweziyishumi zama-yuan nge-500 g, kanti amabhentshi aphezulu — abize nakakhulu. Izinhlobo «zezintaba zangaphandle» (外山) namatiye amaqabunga avela kwezinye izifundazwe abiza izikhathi ezimbalwa ephansi kunalokho, futhi yiwo ngokuvamile athengiswa ngaphansi kwegama laseTunmu.

Indlela yokuziqondisa ekukhetheni:

Umbala wekhasi elomile: itiye leqiniso — inhlanganisela yegolide namnyama. Ukubukeka okugqamile “kwegolide” okulinganayo ngaphandle kwamaqabunga amnyama kuyasolisa: lokhu kungaba akulona iTunmu, noma kuyimpahla eluhlaza enombala (染色, rǎnsè).
Iphunga elimnandi: ubumnandi bemvelo boju, izimbali nezithelo; okuxwayisayo ubumnandi bokufakelwa futhi, esitayeleni esingenantuthu, amathoni entuthu.
Umgando: osobala osagolide; ukufiphala, ithoni elibomvu eliminyene ngokungemvelo noma ukufakwa kombala kuwuphawu oluhluphayo.
Ukuqina: itiye leqiniso linikeza ukuthululelwa okuningi okulinganayo nokunambitheka okuhlala njalo; umgunyathi uyasheshe “ungenalo uzwelo” futhi ubabhe.
Isisekelo: amaqabunga awodwa alinganayo anwebekayo; ikhasi eliphukile, elingalingani, elimnyama liveza ukuhlanganisa okwehlukene.
Intengo nomthombo: i-Jin Jun Mei “yaseTunmu” eshibhile ngencazelo ayilona leli ezisho ukuthi yilo. Izitifiketi zemvelaphi zikhona, kodwa ziyakhohliswa, ngakho-ke okubalulekile idumela lomthengisi nokwazi ukuhlola itiye ngokuthululela.

12. Amaqiniso Athakazelisayo

Indawo yokuzalwa kwetiye elibomvu: iTunmu ithathwa njengendawo lapho kwazalelwa khona itiye lokuqala elibomvu emhlabeni — iZhengshan Xiaozhong, cishe amakhulu amane eminyaka adlule.
Umkhondo waseYurophu: ngaphansi kwegama elithi «Bohea», itiye laseWuyishan lalithunyelwa kakhulu eYurophu ngekhulu leshumi nesikhombisa neleshumi nesishiyagalombili.
Inguquko ka-2005: ukudalwa kweJin Jun Mei kwaveza isigaba esiphelele “se-junmei” kanye negagasi lentshisekelo ematiyeni amaqabunga abomvu kulo lonke elaseChina.
Igama lezigaba: “igolide — isiliva — ithusi” (金/银/铜) emagameni ejunmei libonisa ingxenye yamaqabunga kanye nesigaba sempahla eluhlaza.
Isizinda esiqinile sokulondoloza: ukukhiqiza kukhawulelwe uhlelo lokulondolozwa kwemvelo, kanti eduze kukhona indawo ephakeme kakhulu eNingizimu-mpumalanga yeChina — iHuanggang (amamitha angu-2160,8).
I-Gugu eliphindwe kabili: iWuyishan ifakwe ohlwini lweZikhumbuzo Zomhlaba ze-UNESCO ngesikhathi esisodwa njengento yesiko neyemvelo.

Ngokuphetha:

ITiye laseTunmuguan elibomvu — akulona uphawu olulodwa oluqondile, kodwa isiko eliphelele: kusuka ku-xiaozhong yomlando ebhenywayo kuya ematiyeni anamuhla amaqabunga omndeni we-junmei. Ingxenye yeqabunga elilodwa evela enkabeni yaseTunmu imelela isiqongo salomgqa — itiye elingenantuthu, elimnandi njengoju nezithelo, elibushelelezi, lapho kuhlanganiswe khona i-terroir yezintaba eziphakeme yesizinda sokulondolozwa kwemvelo saseWuyishan, inhlanganisela yembewu yezihlahla zasendaweni kanye nokukhanda okuvunwa ngamaqabunga.

Yimvelaphi nobuqiniso lapha okubaluleke ngaphezu kwamagama anomsindo epaketheni. Indlela enengqondo — ukugxila ekhasini eliyigolide namnyama, hhayi “eliwonke igolide”, iphunga elimnandi lemvelo ngaphandle kobumnandi bokufakelwa kanye nasekuziphatheni kwetiye ekuthululweni: itiye laseTunmu leqiniso eliyiqabunga elilodwa elibomvu liziveza kancane kancane, libambe ukunambitheka okuhlala njalo okubuyayo futhi ligculise idumela lalo hhayi ngezokumaketha, kodwa ngomgando ngokwawo.

Imithombo

Amazinga

Uhlu oluphelele — ekhasini elithi Imithombo